Pedaling is very easy with the Supercell tires on. I have a "loose" gravel driveway on an incline. These tires make the bike feel very stable coming and going. I inflate the tires to 20 lbs. My biggest problem is broken glass at a very busy intersection near my house. Lots of wrecks as people rush to work at the Space Center.

Did you see any damage to the original motor's power cables or connectors ?
Connector pins turn black after overheating.
I had read about some people experiencing wires overheating after the mod.
(on other forums)
Plus I believe Bolton recommends upgrading the connectors with the new motor.
They can be bought cheap on eBay. I got 10 pr for under $10.

The brakes are performing well.
But I wouldn't encourage anyone to make the change over the mechanical caliper
I haven't gone thru the basic adjustment again, to see if there is an improvement yet.
In replacing the original caliper i learned that the adjustment wasn't that difficult?
I don't have any real hills in Florida to challenge the stopping power.

Finally got around to installing both.
Building a 2 & 4 work stand to rest the handle bar on and protect the lcd when inverted is totally worth the effort.
Front tire is easy-peasy once you deflate the old tube.
There are excellent videos out there on the tire install, and Tannus Armour install.
I see no need to duplicate their efforts.
No need to trim the Tannus Armour on the Rad Rover 5.
Just roll everything into place with your fingers, maintaining the proper relationship of rim, tire, armour, tube
(Note: Tannus supplies new smaller diameter tubes)
and then reverse.
I placed the bike wheel on top of an inverted car rim to protect the rotor and / or gears.
Inflate the new tire slowly to ensure everything seats into place.
Rear tire is almost as easy the front.
Use care on re-installation that the "Keyed" side of the washer is on road side or the axle.
Otherwise the axle doesn't seat deep enough in the frame..

Next tire change will be a whiz . .. .

No self steer problem, and they are very smooth on the road.





.

Purchased the calipers from Bolton.
Finally got around to getting some brass tube to swage the cut wire cable.
Got 3 12" inch 1/16" brass tubing from Hobby Lobby for $4.00.
It's in the "model" section.
Everything went as the Bolton video says it will . . . . . BUT . .. .
It may be a change on the Rad Rover 5 ...? ?   As they upgraded the rotor to 180 mm.
On the rear caliper you have to be careful when you remove the old mechanical caliper
as there are 2 concave (?) spacers on each screw that you will need to mount the new calipers.
I did not need the spacer bars that were shipped with the new calipers.
Also I re-used the longer mounting screws that were on the old rear calipers.

Now . . for the verdict. It is quieter, easier to adjust for sure  . . .. but no significant immediate increase in braking.
I suspect that may change a little after the pads "seat.          Will let you know.

No personal experience, though I have thought about it for the future.
But somewhere in one of the forums I read about the motor wires getting
rather warm on sustained hills. 10 gauge stranded wire is only rated for 28 amps.
So far, I haven't felt the need for more acceleration in Florida and will probably
think more about dual batteries to extend range ? ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6wuDOT1iek

WalMart Online is a very good source for bike parts. I wanted to get a set of Originate Supercells.
On-line seller would only let a new customer buy "one"  . . . . Go figure ?
Yet at WalMart on-line . . . ..  I bought two from him . . .via WalMart on-line

Keep the plastic base on the fork that it is shipped with and reuse it.
There is actually a utube video that mentions the topic.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTCNlyJGL8s

Curious to see people's comments how they feel about the Rad Rover 5's power as it comes from the factory ?
There seems to be some question regarding the motor?  There are 750 watt upgrades out there that promise more power & acceleration ?
Never dealt with motors sold via watts before ? ?  Typically . ..  in sawmills . .. .it's horsepower.    Food for thought: https://ebikes.ca/learn/power-ratings.html.

My 1st ride impression:  After riding it 6 miles on relatively near flat terrain. ie:  A 5' rise in a quarter mile  . .. . is a hill ? ?
Rode 1/2 in the pedal assist mode. Didn't feel the need to go above level 3. Motor kicked in very fast above  3.
Rode the rest in the throttle only mode.  Lost 1 bar off the charge level and 1 mph off the top speed. My impression is that it would take mountains to want for the motor / controller upgrade.  My motor wasn't warm even after that 1st ride.

Update:
Replaced the original tires with street tires.  In removing the rear wheel I got to inspect the connector to the motor.
My bike is at a month "new". One pin in the connector is turning black ? ?  I suspect overheating as pin is smaller than I expected..
If it is overheating the "plating" will eventually migrate & "sputter" when it starts arcing.  Seen it before on other equipment.

I chose to go with the Originate Supercells  ( WalMart Online ), but more importantly I added the Tannus Armour Inserts ( from QuietKat ).
They also ship you smaller tubes to go with the inserts. Only the longest thorns can get thru them.
Nothing is totally bullet proof except wooden wheels.