My partner has become worried about all of the reported e bike battery fires. Perhaps too much time has been spent on u tube videos of these occurrences.

so because most of the solutions to these fire issues have simply failed in any independent tests and
I also like to charge my batteries off the bikes & inside my home (for theft security and away from freezing temps).....

so in response....
I only use stock-brand name manufactured batteries.
I use a luna charger that can limit the charging input to 1 amp and to either 80/90 or 100%.
I charge my battery in a welders toolbox that's been fully lined with a 1 inch layer of fortified & re-enforced concrete.
That tool box is internally vented through the wall to the outside with an insulated 3/4  black iron pipe.
The area immediately around this tool box is protected by a fire proof hardi board.
Have a furnace turbine fan run air handler beside it that is set up to automatically direct vent any fumes to the outside that can escape from this fire vault.

probably over kill but I guess that's what most insurance turns out to be.

Has this e bike battery thermal run away issue been a concern for other rad owners and if so what has been your solution for it?

After sitting on the sidelines about upgrading my 2020 Radrover step thru from a 500W hub motor to a 750W, and watching many of the videos favorably comparing Bafangs full cased "true" 750 W hub motor cores over Radpower's original 750 W motor cores, I ordered a replacement from one of the companies that did such a comparison.
When it arrived, the new motor core surprisingly looked identical to Rad Powers's original version. When I complained about this to the supplier, they said that the core that they sent me has been specifically made for the Rad Rover plug & play upgrade and although it looks smaller, it just has more windings within it. They said this was partially done to reduce the motor's weight.
All other motor suppliers now seem to also only be offering this partially cased replacement core. Supply chain limitations, I guess.

Since all the side by side comparisons that I can find were actually between the Rad powers original motor and Bafangs fully cased "true" 750W replacement versions of the same, has anyone here tried out the new smaller replacement cores and if so, what was your impressions of it.

I was just told that I owed an extra $98.00 in duty on top of the normal taxes and shipping costs through ups to bring a $350.00 Bolton e bike motor core from
California to British Columbia.
Am I just cheap or does that seem like a lot?
Any other Canadians had these percentages of duties levied when ordering from the USA?

I have ordered a bare, full sized 750 W bafang core for my Bolton upgraded 2020 Rad Rover step thru. I have read a lot about folks saying how much of a pain getting the original cassette off is and the special tool required to get around the electrical connectors and how it's easier to just put a new cassette on the new core to avoid all of that.
My question (for those who have already done this) is did you need anything else to complete this job beyond the Torx t20 bit/ lock tight & lithium grease?

This is just a warning to any Rad Rover step-thru owners who are choosing to add a second battery to their rear rat trap. 

I occasionally & momentarily sit upright and take my hands off the handlebar on long rides (when I deem it safe to do so) to stretch while riding.  Now that I've added a second battery in a lockbox on the stock rad rear carrier I have found that a harmonic oscillation can randomly arise that could take a rider down if they did not get their hands back on their handlebars within 3 -5 seconds. It appears to be connected to the location in height and weight of my lockbox(containing 2nd battery, battery rack, stock tool kit, electric air pump & parallel battery controller all totaling about 12-13 lbs) over the rear tire that can cause a compounding shimmy in the front handlebars/ tire when a rider's weight is not leaning forward in the usual bicycle position to countermand it.
So if you're trying to decide whether to put the second battery on the front of the step-thru frame or the rear rack, this might be important.
I have decided to keep it in the rear because of the security and the weatherproofing that a rear lock box can offer.
Cheers all.

I've been reading recently about lithium ion bike batteries having a shorter lifespan when they are being fully recharged every time we ride them. They are recommending not charging them above 80% and just topping them up to 100% just before taking the bike out. Presumably this is to limit the time that the battery is 100% charged.
This is not about battery balancing or longer term storage because those are different issues but its about our daily usage. Claims are being made of potentially doubling the battery lifespan by doing this. If any of this is true, considering the cost of replacement batteries,

This completely contradicts Rad Rover's instructions for 100% bike charging after every ride.

It seems like it would be a pain in the ass to try to manually limit recharging ones battery to 80% or less.
Has anybody here used a battery satiator for limiting the battery charging to 80%? and if so, which brand or type do you use? The ones I've looked at did not have the lead ends that are compatible with the Rad battery.

I live in Victoria BC within a 100 miles of Seattle's Rad power Bikes.

I have been working with Rad on an intermittent power problem with a 2 1/2 month old RadRover step thru and a couple of days ago, with no preliminary warning, they sent me a notice of intent to send me a replacement controller  (shipping free) under warrantee. It says the controller costs $139.00 less a $100.00 warrantee refund plus taxes leaving me with a $39.00 charge.

I have responded with an email contesting the warrantee refund not covering the full cost of the part. No mention of any replacement labor even though I am quite willing to replace the controller myself.

Friends of mine who are involved in warrantee repairs and replacement parts routinely send warrantee items across International borders with a nominal $1.00 value.

Am I out of line on my warrantee reasoning with a new bike and has anyone else had this experience with Rad.

Hey folks
I have a 2 month old 2020 fat tired Rad rover step thru and 5 days ago after running into my first rain with this e bike I started having problems. When the rain started I was 20 km from home.
I covered my lcd and its controller on my handlebars with freezer bags and some elastic bands which was recommended to me to help protect against rain.
10 Minutes more of riding and my power shut off. It restarted after I rebooted it but failed again 5 minutes later. Then it started shutting down for 5 - 10 minutes at a time where nothing could restart it during that time. That was followed by an intermittent grinding and shaking from the motor when ever I was starting off or traveling at a low speed but would dissipate at moderate or high speeds.
When I finally pedaled home ( under no power) I dried off the bike with toweling, a heater and a fan over night. I opened up and re checked every electrical connection the next day because my led had shown a fault code of 21 a couple of times during the rain storm. Everything seemed ok but the next day I continued to have power shut downs and the same intermittent grinding and shaking.
I have put in a request for help from Radpower on the last two consecutive days but have not received any call back yet. Very disappointing considering how helpful and attentive they were to my previous emails during the purchasing process.

Has anyone else had problems after riding in the rain? I live in a coastal city with pretty unpredictable rainy weather so even though I have loved this bike up until that rain shower, I am now wondering if I should have chosen a better water protected e bike over the Rad rover. Has anybody here done anything to better waterproof their bikes?