freewheel trouble

[handlebar]

Today when I mounted, the freewheel ratchet in my Radrunner 1 didn't catch. I backpedaled, and it caught the second time. A moment later it missed again. It was okay for the rest of the ride.

I guess it needs cleaning and lubing. A few months ago when there was a bit of noise on each wheel revolution, I found globs of excess grease at the ring gear driven by the motor's planetary gears. (I think that's what they're called...) I wiped away the globs and the cyclic noise was gone.

I don't recall getting into the freewheel. I don't know if it's the same on all models. How do I open the freewheel? How should I lube it? Should I lube the planetary gears?

[Radio Runner]

Opening a freewheel can be done but its not an easy job. Special tools are required. The bearing retainer is reverse threaded and house about 70 tiny bearings and the pawls that engage when pedaled and disengage when coasting. Its also alot easier if you have a freewheel tool to take it off the hub and do the work. Cleaning, re-lubing etc. etc.

That being said the price of a new freewheel is anywhere from 15 bucks for amazon trash that may never come off again (seriously, some cheap freewheels do not have the necessary design that allows for future removal) or $130 for top of the line White Industries. I recommend ACS Claws since they have served the BMX industry for decades and are around $30 bucks.

Also, if you get a new one make sure to get the one with the right size teeth. They come in two widths depending on which chain your running.

[handlebar]

Opening a freewheel can be done but its not an easy job. Special tools are required. The bearing retainer is reverse threaded and house about 70 tiny bearings and the pawls that engage when pedaled and disengage when coasting. Its also alot easier if you have a freewheel tool to take it off the hub and do the work. Cleaning, re-lubing etc. etc.

That being said the price of a new freewheel is anywhere from 15 bucks for amazon trash that may never come off again (seriously, some cheap freewheels do not have the necessary design that allows for future removal) or $130 for top of the line White Industries. I recommend ACS Claws since they have served the BMX industry for decades and are around $30 bucks.

Also, if you get a new one make sure to get the one with the right size teeth. They come in two widths depending on which chain your running.

Thanks. Are ACS Claws available online?

After three days without trouble, it happened worse this morning. I got underway with throttle, and the freewheel wouldn't engage at all. I stopped and bounced the bike on the back wheel. That didn't help. I decided to run my errand on the motor alone. In seconds, the freewheel worked again and caused no more trouble.

Has that happened to you? It seems like corrosion or sticky lube. I wish I could inject fresh lubricant.

Maybe removing the freewheel isn't as complicated as a youtube video showed. He said it was a Radrunner, but it had a sprocket casette. A cable and connector extended from the axle, so he had to use a special wrench from Bolton to go over the connector and turn the spline. My Radrunner has no cable coming out the axle. It looks as if a hammer and flathead screwdriver would loosen the freewheel without a special wrench. Would that work?

[handlebar]

Opening a freewheel can be done but its not an easy job. Special tools are required. The bearing retainer is reverse threaded and house about 70 tiny bearings and the pawls that engage when pedaled and disengage when coasting. Its also alot easier if you have a freewheel tool to take it off the hub and do the work. Cleaning, re-lubing etc. etc.

That being said the price of a new freewheel is anywhere from 15 bucks for amazon trash that may never come off again (seriously, some cheap freewheels do not have the necessary design that allows for future removal) or $130 for top of the line White Industries. I recommend ACS Claws since they have served the BMX industry for decades and are around $30 bucks.

Also, if you get a new one make sure to get the one with the right size teeth. They come in two widths depending on which chain your running.

Thanks for telling me about width. I need 3/32.

This is very close to what I have.
https://amzn.to/3tgALOe

The model number is LY-BB16TA83NF. My number ends slightly differently: 16T8VNF. I don't know the significance.

I couldn't budge mine with a hammer and screwdriver. I suppose the axle flexes enough to absorb the shock. DNP, who made my freewheel, has an 8-notch removal tool on Amazon.

I may not need to replace or disassemble it. I noticed a gap and a little play under the shiny outer ring. I applied a little 5W motor oil to the surface and wiggled the ring as I rotated it. The clicking seems louder now. The quietness of the freewheel has bothered me since it was new. Maybe the OEM lube made it quiet but can also get gummy.

[Radio Runner]

Be happy you have the power cable on the non-drive side. I've never understood why it was thought to be a good idea to put it on the side you need to take off and service the freewheel. I was pleasantly surprised when my RR showed up with this new orientation. Untill then I had resigned myself to having to just deal with that stupidity since all ebikes seemed to carry on that error. But HURRAH Rad did something right and I hope others follow.

You may have a sticky pawl in there that doesn't engage 100% of the time. A hammer hardly ever works and usually ends up damaging the splines that the real removal tool needs to take it off leaving you in tears.     Think of the power your legs can generate, thats what is tightening the freewheel to the hub all the time. It gets super tight from the moment you start pedaling etc.

I do see ACS on Amazon Claws and PAWS? (must be a new moniker.) DONT GET "SOUTHPAW" those are only for left side drive.

[handlebar]

You may have a sticky pawl in there that doesn't engage 100% of the time. A hammer hardly ever works and usually ends up damaging the splines that the real removal tool needs to take it off leaving you in tears.     Think of the power your legs can generate, thats what is tightening the freewheel to the hub all the time. It gets super tight from the moment you start pedaling etc.

I do see ACS on Amazon Claws and PAWS? (must be a new moniker.) DONT GET "SOUTHPAW" those are only for left side drive.

Often, the shock of tapping a box wrench near the head with a hammer will break loose a fastener that wouldn't budge with a 1/2" breaker bar. A screwdriver, punch, or chisel can also work. It won't work if the fastener is mounted on something not rigid enough. I guess the axle isn't rigid enough.

I'd rejected ACS because I couldn't find one that said 16 teeth and 3/32". Now when I scroll down the customer questions and answers for the ACS PAWS 4.1, a customer says he runs it with 3/32" chain. Amazon wants $26.50. It must be a recent change. A price tracking service says it's been $18.50 for months.

Mine had sounded a little funny a few times lately when I back pedaled. (Childhood habits linger. I like to hear the freewheel.) Since yesterday, it has sounded clean and smooth and worked flawlessly. It looks as if I managed to get a little oil into it. When I was a kid, you'd soak something like that in kerosene, let it drip, soak it in motor oil, let it drip, wipe, and put it back on.