Quote from: Altema on October 12, 2021, 05:35:19 AM
I have to agree with JTK77. If you are spending that much money, you may as well go full hydraulic and get braking performance that's significantly better. I've had the hybrid setup, and they had a little bit better fell than the stock brakes with the original pads. At first. Then they degraded after a few weeks and continued to get worse. When a woman stepped in front of me and I could not lock the wheels at all, I got rid of them and went back to the Tectro mechanical braked and upgraded the pads.

The pad upgrade route is something I am also considering. May I ask what you upgraded to?

Thanks

I see, re the $49 fee.

I was fortunate enough that they had the RadMini ST in stock when I ordered in August, shipping was to be in an expected 3 to 5 days, had it on my doorstep on the 5th working day after ordering! Hard to beat! I might be wrong, but it seemed to be in a warehouse in Toronto.

Seeking an experienced Juin Tech M1 user's opinion.

I have a RadMini ST 2 and I am considering this brake upgrade. I see Juin Tech M1 kits on amazon that come with new rotors too. Would it be advisable to change the rotors as well (front wheel manageable, rear wheel does not seem so manageable for me), or stick to the 180mm rotors already on the bike? If I stick to the original Tektro rotors, would it be better to use the caliper adapters already on the bike, since only one of the two Juin Tech adapters seems to be 180mm-designed?

Or maybe, if looking for a minimum of fussing, staying with the mechanical Tektro's, but replacing the Tektro E10.11 pads with semi-metallic pads? Oh, and I am over 200 lbs.

Thanks for your time!

PS: I notice Tektro pad sets don't come with new cotter pins; is this a testament to the quality of their cotter pin, or to their penny-pinching?

I had a Topeak MTX bag that I was using on another bike. On a lucky break, I got a (hard to come across) rear carrier for my RadMini ST2. I managed to find an Omni Quicktrack Adapter and, finding inspiration from other posts on forums, fitted the adapter to the rear carrier.

Basically, two tie wraps to hold the adapter down. I have also used tie wraps underneath to help centre the adapter (later changed to sturdier, tie wraps)

Thanks for the updates! Good job!

Quote from: JimInPT on June 13, 2021, 07:35:42 AM

Quote from: vudude on June 13, 2021, 12:14:49 AMThere is no upright support, only straps.

Thanks - that's true, and I thought about it, but concluded that if people are hauling 250-350 lb motorcycles in reviews without complaint, a 90-lb Mini shouldn't be an issue if properly cinched down.  In addition to the ramp (which I think is a bit too short, increasing the load angle), I think I'll be trying the regular Hollywood carrier routine of rearing the bike up on her hind legs, planting the front wheel into place and then lifting the rear end up without using the ramp at all.

Finally dug up a 20% discount code and put one on order just now.

Any updates?

I am in Ontario and it was either I receive and assemble and adjust the bike myself, or have VeloFix do the job for a (higher than $49) fee. They took care of everything, delivered the bike, instructed me on the bike characteristics and operation, made my test-ride it and made additional adjustments for a better fit and operation, and installed accessories too. A1 service overall.

In your particular case, there might not be much of a difference since you are located in the flagship store area. Checking with RadPower would be the best source, since they are just a (local) phone call away.

Quote from: Andy Finney on September 16, 2020, 02:01:49 PM
Found this while looking for the same solution. Based on how it fits on the RadCity (which is what my bike is) I think I could use a set of stainless steel screws from the top and then a small EMT aluminum half-round bracket, washers and two locknuts. Can't wait to try it myself as soon as my QuickTrack adapter arrives.

Check out the review by Uglider at the link below for pictures of using zip-ties which made me think about the above solution.

https://amzn.to/3vmKTDv

Zombie thread, I suppose, but still!

Thanks for this tip, this is just the ticket for my RadMini rear rack. I am experimenting with various ways of keeping the plate centered.

Quote from: JimL on September 13, 2021, 09:09:34 AM
Yes, the lower threads are 6 x 1.0.  I had to use a tap on all four Minis due to the powdercoat in the threads.  I also used a tap to clean up the 5 x 0.8 on the upper mounts.  Powdercoat can actually deform the aluminum, and the threads could be damaged by initial installation of new bolts.

I have found it advisable to clean up the threads (using good quality die) on any original small bolts that you remove and reuse (such as bottle carrier bolts).  The bolt finish quality is not up to my standards, and I have replaced a few with Japan made metric hardware.

On the lower rack mount bolts, I put an "acorn" stainless steel 6mm nut on the end of the bolt (after the nut) to keep from snagging skin or rags/brushes when cleaning the bike.  Like grandma always said, "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."

And....it looks nicer.

Thanks for all this information and tips! I also noticed that of the two lower mounting tabs, the one on the chain side seems a bit "crooked" compared to the other one. Which would be consistent with posts outlining difficulty in making of one the bolts fit on these tabs.

Would anybody know for sure the size and thread pitch of the lower mounting bracket for the rack on this bike? I know that a M5 x .8 has lots of free-play, and I am not sure about an M6 (I tried one, but it did not seem to start threading, maybe due to the thick coat of paiint?).

The racks are not currently available in Canada, though they are in the US at this time, but we cannot order from the US website. Either I wait patiently that a rack becomes available this side of the border, or I try to fit something from a third party. Any suggestions in this regard, other than what has been posted here before?

Thanks!

Quote from: ianpro99 on June 15, 2020, 11:34:18 AM
Hi all, has anyone added toe clips or shoe straps to their bike? I love my Rad Rover, but am looking to keep feet on the pedals in the right position. I've seen some plastic not-quite-clips that you attach to the pedal that come over the front part of your shoe, but without straps for easy in and out.  Not sure if they will fit though.  Any advice is appreciated.

You may be refering to the "Zefal "Cristophe" Mountain Bicycle Half Toe Clip". My wife and I use them on our mountain bikes. If you can put them on your pedals, they keep your foot from slipping forward when applying torque, help on the up stroke of the pedalling motion, and you don't feel welded to your pedal, you can easiyl wiggle out of them as required. As to putting your foot back in, the weight of the cage will get the pedal at the vertical, and you simply put your sole to the edge of the pedal, and can easily slip back in, without looking, just by feel. They come in two sizes; as long as the tip of your shoes is not too bulky, you can use them. YMMV

Quote from: George3 on May 27, 2021, 09:06:35 PM
I tried these from Shimano and they are great.....My feet are on the pedals with great support and no slippage.

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=90916

George

Agree 110% with George3. I got a set of these to replace the originals on a Cannondale after nearly falling down a rocky cliff due to my wet sneaker sole slipping off one of them Cannondale pedals as I was taking off (applying my full weight on that foot). They are not the cheapest, but they are worth every penny (I had thought of saving a few bucks ordering no-name pedals... bearing grabbed and ultimately seized on first outing, with pedal flying off.) YMMV

Quote from: vudude on January 02, 2021, 02:28:02 PM
Here is the one I went with =>  https://onway-ebikes.com/products/bike-rear-rack
The link you posted looks like a good one also.

Did the rack come with a cable extension for the tail-light?