I'm assuming you have a geared runner? That might be related to the derailleur needing to be adjustment.

Here's some information about how to do that with a rover: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_SQ28Q3Hu4

Try swapping displays and see if it'll power up.

And be sure to take a look at each of the plugs under the battery harness and make sure they're all tightly connected.

The rear wheel can be unbolted and removed just like any other bicycle. The motor itself can be removed as well if you want to take out all the spokes and what not. By removing the rear wheel and spinning that off the bike I'm trying to narrow down to whether it's the wheel itself.

The drive motors on the rad city are fairly simple, there's only one moving part. Inside it's a rotor lined with magnets, and then that's surrounded by electromagnets. If it is the motor it'd probably be a bearing issue. It can be fully disassembled if you're really determined: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-W8espI3WJA

In any regard. Less than three months old should be covered under warranty.

There's nothing brushing against the wheel is there? I had a similar noise and it ended up being a small piece of plastic making contact with the wheel itself.

Anyway. If you feel comfortable pull off the rear wheel. Hold both ends of the hub roll the wheel along the ground and see if it makes the same noise.

Sounds like it may be a broken shifter. You can get a replacement part here: https://boltonebikes.com/collections/frames-and-parts/products/shimano-7-speed-thumb-shifter

It's showing "0 mph" on the display (not km/h)? Does the bike still have power and throttle?

My interpretation is that motor was not tested using the stock controller. That said, assuming it has the same connector and the same pin configuration, it *should* work. Take that with a grain of salt because I don't have a Rad bike with a bafang motor to test with.

I would probably wait for a replacement part from Rad, especially if the bike is under warranty.

--

When my display went bad on my RadCity model I bought an aftermarket controller/display to fill in the gaps. I was able to get my bike up and running two weeks before the factory parts came in.

You can get a replacement motor from bolton:

https://boltonebikes.com/collections/motors-and-kits/products/bafang-fat-bike-hub-motor

I'd be interested in schematic availability for general purpose component repairs as well.

Assistance gradually tapers off until the wattage runs down to zero, typically when the last bar starts flashing. Usually at about 25 miles in I'll kick it up from PAS 2 to 3. The furthest I've gone on a single charge is about 45 miles (PAS 1-2).

I wedged it into the same spot as the stock controller. Tight fit but it works.

Quote from: gadgetex on April 13, 2021, 06:17:32 PM
hi I would like to hear how the RadCity does on the trails or if you know any videos. 
I have 26 x 1.75  and 2.10 Mountain bike tires that are VERY aggressive - Not Ebike rates though.
I was all set to buy a Rad Rover then watched one more Youtube video and they sold out.   So maybe i get a RadCity.
I think the RadCity will be an easier bike to pedal around the pavement my main use.
BUT i want to hit the hike and bike gravel and some dirt
Thanks

I regularly ride my RadCity on mixed pavement/light offroad. The tires are very good for all seasons, last a long time (2800+ miles), and are quieter. The RadCity has narrower tires than (most) other Rad models and that may make it easier to maneuver around trails.

In my opinion the RadCity is just as capable mechanically as the RadRover model for light trail use. They're both similar weight. The studded tires on the Rover may provide better traction in soft stuff. I've never had a problem getting out of trouble in my RadCity. I've actually spun the back wheel trying to push up a hill.

The Rover has a more powerful geared rear hub drive, I would expect that to be better on top speed and more bottom end torque. Consider the Rover if you live in an area with sharp rocks or mountainous.

And this is the configuration I started with:

Quote from: Rjbur007 on May 25, 2020, 09:02:47 AM

LIM: 72 km/h --- LOL  I wish... just want to see what is possible with the &^$%^#*&^ of a motor on these bikes
DIM: 26"
UNT: 3
P1: 46
P2: 5
P3: 1
P4: 0
P5: 15
C1: 3
C2: 0
C3: 1
C4: 0
C5: 06
C6: 3
C7: 1
C8: 0
C9: 0
C10: N
C11: 0
C12: 4
C13: 1
C14: 1

L1: 0
L2: 0
L3: 1
L4: 5

I bought the same type of controller/display bolton sells for my 2019 RadCity about a month ago. The stock display stopped working and I got tired of waiting rad to turn around (3 weeks) a replacement.

It does work fine. Some observations for anyone considering an aftermarket controller on this model rad:

- Acceleration feels much more powerful. It's more of a linear acceleration rather than the "soft start" off the stock controller.

- The motor vibrates a bit more at lower speed. The aftermarket controller sends a square wave instead of the sinewave you get stock, not as smooth but not a big deal.

- Top speed is still no greater than a bit over 25mph. This is probably a limit of the direct drive motor. You can easily exceed 25mph downhill unlike the stock controller.

- This controller does seem to chew through the battery a lot faster. Time will tell as I get the settings dialed in.

- Regen braking is louder.

- I also observed the motor feels a lot hotter. (May shorted its life?)

- There's more a delay in acceleration at speed, this affects both pedal assist and throttle. If you let go of the throttle completely and then apply, it takes about an extra half second to start accelerating again compared to stock.

- I have the color display. I find it a bit harder to read under hard sunlight. Also a bit too bright at night.

- Aftermarket display buttons are nicer feeling and easier to press.

In conclusion. It's not a bad investment if you're looking for a bit more acceleration and a more "raw" feeling bike, at the cost of range.
Otherwise, stock I think these bikes are about as good as they'll get.