I've worked in the IT industry for decades.  This has been true on PC - related equipment for a long time.  No one in the 1960s was even allowed to look sideways at an IBM mainframe!  I had a SUN Systems server in the '90s that was the same.

Especially on electronic equipment, manufacturers loved to put those holographic stickers on everything.  Just like Microsoft has done for YEARS & Years!  It is a standard SOP anymore.

All tire manufacturers put the max PSI as part of the mold on every tire.  It may be difficult to find. Use some sidewalk chalk. Rub it on all the bumps on the tire.  The manufacturer name, model, and size should be there also. 

I need my 3x magnifiers for such work.  A handheld magnifying lens will do the same/better.  I had Corvair's in HS & College, that's the one vehicle where manufacturers' suggested tire pressure is CRITICAL.

Good luck!

These guys did a fine job of building the RPW4 frames!  It has all quality TIG welded frames. I'm not a ME or CE but I have a background in Manufacturing Technology.  You'd be best to probably just call RPB's to start. 

They know the "intended" loads the frames were designed to.  Designed loads and possible loads are usually far apart. You have to know wall thickness and weld penetration specifics to do a full engineering evaluation.  The angles and tube OD's you can do. Most 3D design & modeling software includes some type of load analysis.

The ID's require some designer-specific engineering knowledge unless you have an x-ray or ultrasound device able to take those measurements. 

A Sawzall could give you quick ID's, on the tubes, but much poorer bicycle performance!  (kind of...LOL)

go on amazon, NewEgg, or any pc accessories place, ali.com, etc.  Look for a USB hub with a micro-USB primary connector.  IDK if one exists, but there are adapters from almost any male to a female type A connector.

Quote from: crorris on September 10, 2021, 07:11:28 AM
I'm kind of lucky because my wife has a Rover too, but she never goes with me on my long rides. So, I take her battery with me when I go farther than 25 miles. I wouldn't mind just having a second battery too, but I want to be able to swap it out vs. running in parallel or adding another mount. The Rad batteries are so expensive. I'd almost rather buy a whole second bike instead and have all the other spare parts. 

I wish there was a less expensive aftermarket battery that plugged right into the standard Rad mount/connector. I search pretty extensively. Has anyone else found one?

RPB has an exclusive contract with its manufacturer.  Special mount plate, special battery.  There is a variety of mount plates to 3D print on thingiverse.com, do some searching there.  RPB is very reluctant to give any "schematical drawings" out.  You have to take all your own measurements.  That's a bit of a PIA.

Quote from: DickB on May 15, 2021, 08:47:04 PM
Probably just meter accuracy. My meter is specified as +_1.2% accuracy, so that's +- 0.5V.  Probably just a variation in meters.  I have two DVMs that do read within 0.1V on the Rad battery, but I have one that I got for free at Harbor Freight and it's different by almost 1 V.

Next time I order parts I'm going to get a Maxxim MAX6350 voltage reference IC and check it out against my DVMs.

Yes, Dick, I was thinking the same 4 diode setup would fix this issue.  I have used Ohm's Law, since 7th grade, a while ago.

I'm an IT guy, not a circuit builder, but have done some simulations for RaspPi's.

For we geeks, the wiki on Ohm's Law is just the ticket!  Enjoy.  Great exchange of ideas!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm%27s_law

Quote from: Ryan on September 14, 2021, 11:48:37 AM

Quote from: Ddaybc on September 13, 2021, 10:22:22 AM
I was unable to find anyone who supplies studded tires for the Radwagon 4 and, due to the design of the tire tread, putting in studs was not practical. However, there's a company called "Slipknot" that supplies bicycle tire chains for a variety of sizes. They don't list a size for the Radwagon 4 but when I wrote to them here's the answer I got:

Hey Dave,
We do have that size available I just haven't gotten them on the site yet. If you order the 24"x3" I will make sure you get the correct size. We are waiting on materials but should be shipping by early to mid-October. If they are a gift and you need them sooner let me know and I'll see what we can do.
Thanks,
Justin

The email address is "conatctjustinshaw@gmail.com"

The tire chains cost about $100.00 a pair (If I remember correctly) and the shipping to Canada is about $35.00. I live in Vernon BC, Canada and we have snow every winter and the sidewalks and bike paths are not cleared much so I am going to need something for the tires in order to ride this winter. I remember using rope and extension cords for tire chains when I was a kid. They/it worked pretty well so I can, sort of, vouch for the tire chains.

This is really helpful information. I'm going to keep this in mind.

That's an interesting idea.  Living here in Iowa, USA "Tundra Season" can start in late October, and go into April.  I'll star this thread.

I use Veloinsurance, check if they offer Cadian coverage.  It is a bicycle inclusive insurance.  It is their market.  See what they say. 

Most home insurance here in Iowa, USA doesn't offer high-end specialized equipment.  The owner/renter deductible is set at ~$1k, which would suck!

I was pondering this issue again.  It makes sense ( oops, oh no not logic!  ) that any "chain setup" as long as the RPW4 has, is usually designed with a tray, or tension idler.  I have a background in farm equipment.  That's how those applications have been designed for ~100+ years!  Farther back on Steam Powered Equipment.

Quote from: Radmama on May 07, 2021, 08:52:08 AM
I just got my radwagon 4 for Mother's Day and have the Thule yepp seat. Can anyone help me understand how to better maneuver the kickstand? Right now I'm basically lifting up the bike with my 18mo old on the back to get the kickstand down and take him out of his seat. I'm not that strong and this doesn't seem like the correct action. Thanks!!

Mamma, that's a really good question.  I have an idea, I have a rw4, it would be sweet. Let me built a parts list & see how that becomes a drawing/schematic  PM me... 

Quote from: SoCoRuss on April 22, 2021, 12:58:13 PM
Does anyone have pics or designs of a bike stand, probably wood, that will hold your bike while its upside down during tire changes and other maint? That actually worked out.

I have seen a couple comments in threads that folks were going to build something but nothing since.

I've built one of my own years ago. Some Angle Iron, some pipe, a little welding.   It was a bit goofy.  I needed to do a v.2.  I just forgot about it. Show a friend with a welder a commercial one.  They can do it easy.

Quote from: Mic on August 13, 2020, 10:37:14 AM
Hi Ryan thanks for the feed back on spokes.
I also contacted Rad Europe and they provided me with the following info. for my Rad Rhino which may be of interest to others.
This is all the information you requested about the spokes:

Spokes   12-gauge, stainless steel, black
Spoke length front   258 mm
Spoke length rear   220 mm
Spoke tension (front, rear)   100 kgf

Detailed Specs is what most manufacturers supply, as a guide of some kind.  You can buy a manual for a John Deere 1932 Model B, Mechanics, Owners, Parts.   (ok that's public domain by now)

The right to repair issue is still in flux.  just wiki right to repair.  BTW John Deere and Apple oppose this the mostist. Pun intended.

Quote from: gopam on November 12, 2020, 12:16:11 PM

Quote from: Ryan on October 12, 2020, 06:17:31 PM
I'll cover this in an upcoming video, but the only suspension seatpost that *might* work is the Kinekt 2.1. You'll need the largest size they sell, the 31.6: https://amzn.to/34T9ogi

Then you can buy the 31.6 to 34.9 seatpost shim: https://bit.ly/337la9C

Again, I have not tried this myself and it's critical that you realize that you will be limited on adjustability. Hope this helps!

Hi Ryan, so I have a new question for you. Here's my situation. Currently I don't want to remove the RadWagon 4 seat from the oem seatpost in case it is damaged. The seat is holding together on the seatpost ok for now. I saw in one of the for sale photos....that the previous owner had a different seat installed but then he switched it back to stock before I bought the bike.  It looks like the seat attachment might be broken but it is holding for now. I don't want to attempt to remove the seat in case it falls apart and then I would not be able to ride. I want to keep the stock/oem seat and seatpost together so I always have that option or for however long it lasts. Mine does look like the seat attachment might of been broken by the previous owner.

The RadPower bikes website does NOT have a RadWagon 4 replacement oem/stock 34.9 seatpost for sale.

I did purchase a cloud 9 seat that I'd like to use. So alternatively, instead of looking for a suspension seatpost, are there any 34.9 long seatposts that you can recommend? 

Or are there any 31.6 long seatposts you recommend? - Then I'd also buy the 31.6 to 34.9 seatpost shim you recommend above.

I'd like to at least use my new cloud 9 seat but I think it will be best to attach it to a new seatpost. Thanks!!

the RPB website says on its parts/accessories page.  If you can't find something, call us.

Quote from: FrankD on April 21, 2021, 11:59:48 AM
Hi Guys, I'm trying to find; where I can buy the factory standard battery mounting plate (just the plate) no wiring. I am creating a second (spare) battery mount for longer trips, I want it to be lockable and sturdy (like the mounting factory battery base plate). I will mount it to the front or rear rack on my Rover 5.

Hey Frank,

I found a model on Thingiverse dot com/thing:4600227

If you have a friend with a 3D Printer, or you could make a new friend (hint) it could happen PM me.

There's never enough...  I've seen the "keeper thing".  I've got a caliper and 2 - Ender3 3D printers.  ... let me see... Once I have a working one, I'll post it here to the link on Thingiverse.  (a public domain 3d model sharing site)  We should really be helping each other!