I like what they've done with the Radwagon. 20" tires, suspension fork and hydraulic disc brakes. Precisely what I wanted to do with my RW4. That would ride even nicer with a suspension seat post. Nice upgrade Rad.

Traildad, that's correct. The internal temperature is a lot higher than the external temperature of the motor case. I don't know what the difference would be but I would guess it would be at least 10 degrees different.

DickB I've been contemplating either an upgraded controller and display or simply get the EggRider. I'm going to make my final decision if/when I have to. For my purposes the stock motor is enough but I want more hill climbing ability, especially when loaded with cargo.

I NEVER charge my ebike battery without being present. IE: I charge mine and my wife's in the house and while we are home and inside the house. If an ebike battery goes nuclear it only give you a moment or two to react before a catastrophic reaction takes place. I don't want to take the chance.

We can't afford a different car (automatic instead of a standard) and I can't drive a standard since my motorcycle accident. So I have to use my bike when my partner can't drive me to necessary appointments, shopping etc. While we don't have our ebikes replacing our car, I use mine whenever I need to.
Does that count?



PS: Winter riding really SUCKS!!!

DickB, nice picture. Unfortunately my Canadian RW4 controller doesn't have the same information. I took a picture of the underside of mine while it was still on the bike. It's too blurry so I won't post it but it just says it's a controller for a brushless motor. The label doesn't say how much minimum or maximum amps the controller is rated for, throttle information etc. It just has a serial number and what bike it's for. Nothing about the specs. It's disappointing. Oh well, I'll keep on carrying on until something breaks/wears out etc and then I will bite the bullet and upgrade.
I also suspect the display doesn't actually control the controller or the wattage sent to the motor. I believe the controller does that but I think software for the controller and the display are written in the same computer language and neither one of them can talk to anything not written in the same language. Thus the need to change the display when one changes the controller.

I took a ride a while ago just after we had some snow and before the cold snap hit. It was also raining so the road, especially in the bike lane, was covered in slush. Our city pushes the snow to the side of the road but not far enough to clear off the bike lanes. WOW, very hairy trying to stay upright and not falling over into traffic. I don't often ride in the winter yet but I am going to order a tire for the front of my bike and stud it. Probably for next winter as it's almost the end of January and we really only have about one month left in winter. If push comes to shove I will probably buy two tires and keep one "just in case" I decide I need to have the back tire capable of handling snow.
When/if you decide to stud your tire(s) can you post what studs you're going to use and how you're going to mount them?

Thank you

When one has connections that are covered in corrosion and the system has stopped working one needs to see where the problem lies. Corrosion can creep inside sealed wires as it is considered a galvanic type of growth. Where a wire goes, corrosion can follow. Thus the need for a continuity test. In this case check the continuity from the controller to each of the pins in the connector. If you have continuity in all of the pins/wires then you need to check continuity from the other part of the connector to the motor plug. Again, if continuity is good then check continuity from the other side of the plug to the motor.
It's the only way to see what part of the wiring you need to replace. Sometimes one can replace just one wire, other times just a part of a wiring harness. Often the entire harness needs to be replaced.
This test will also determine, if all of the continuity checks out OK, that it may be your controller and there's additional tests for that. I don't know how to test for a controller so, if this is your case, then others will need to chime in.

I bought mine from a local bike shop. Price was competitive and I had the option of sourcing a shim for the post and a cover for the suspension parts. I've enjoyed it a lot as it's made my RW4 more comfortable to ride.

Nice picture of the covered bridge. I like those.
I have a set of Rad handlebar mitts on my RW4. They work very well and have allowed me to use light mechanics gloves while riding. I haven't rode in -10 degree weather though.
I can't feel the left handlebar buttons with the gloves on so I just leave the PAS at default level 1. Shifting is pretty straightforward as the upshift button and the downshift lever are easy to feel. If I do eventually ride in actual cold weather and I have to use winter gloves it might be a challenge. I guess I'll find out later this winter.

I've heard of people using their ski helmet while riding when it's cold out. When I ride this winter I'm going to try it. My ski helmet is designed to keep me warm while offering protection and my goggles are designed to be worn over my eyeglasses. They didn't fog up while skiing so maybe they'll stay clear when riding.

In Canada when I looked at insurance for my RW4 I was told our house policy covers it but up to a maximum of $3000.00. They don't include any accessories.
My partner has a new Rocky mountain bike valued somewhere around $6000 or $6500.00 so we got additional insurance from Pedal Power Insurance. So now my RW4 and all of my accessories are covered as well as her bike.
It's advisable to speak to your insurance provider to find out what limits they have and what they include or if there's any strange rules etc.

I remember those sting rays. I still have fond memories of mine.

On my Canadian RW4 I can use the throttle even when I'm on "0" pedal assist. However I've seen some EU reviews indicating, for some brands, the throttle doesn't work if pedal assist is set at "0". John Rose is correct about the motor taking it's cue from the cadence sensor so it may take some time to kick in. Mine kicks in at about 1/4 turn but many have said it takes 1/2 turn of the pedals.
In the EU I also believe the maximum speed is limited by what pedal assist level you have the bike set at. Is that correct? On my RW4 the full throttle and speed may be accessed regardless.
Perhaps look into the Eggrider controller system. It will unlock your bike to obtain what you are looking for and it's made in the EU.

Banjopete, when your Kenda tires arrived, other than an arrow showing which direction they are supposed to rotate, did they have any markings indicating Front or rear? I'm still divided between ordering one for my front wheel verses the tire chains from Slipknot Traction.

Thank you.