I've been using Pedal Power Insurance in Canada.  https://pedalpowerinsurance.ca/ 

Quote from: mwolff on September 11, 2021, 06:14:38 PM
What model is that on?  I just installed the controller on my Radrunner Plus, placing it under the crankset where the original was.  The new controller is much bigger and I had to modify the wiring cable placement, and use a zip tie to fully secure it all........in a jury rig way, fugly.  Tomorrow I'll see if mounting on seat tube with the u-bolt as you did will work on my bike.

Sorry, I should have made that clear.  My installation is on a RadRover5 where the stock controller is installed on the seat tube.  I could re-use part of the stock mounting bracket  instead of using the actual u-bolt to go around the frame.  I just used the crossbar that came with the u-bolt to add reinforcement for the new controller, which has very soft metal.  For you, you might need the actual u-bolt sitting around the seat tube, in which case, you'll have to make sure you spec out the bolt diameter to fit around the frame as well as thin enough to slot through the holes on the controller.

Search amazon for "co2 inflator".  Widely used, but be aware they don't have enough air to 'fully' inflate your tire let alone seat the bead on Rover fat tires.  You'll need to use several, or just carry a pump.

Same here with the range anxiety.  😂😂  A dual battery setup would be nice if you do it right.  Paralleled correctly, it would reduce the power draw from each pack by 1/2, which will get you longer pack life (charge cycles) as well as range.  The problem is, just about all the parallel adapters I see out there are not true parallel, but rather switchers.  You'd still get the benefit of range, but not the reduced current draw.  At worse with these switchers, you'd see the same battery life as normal, but boost range safely.  Basically the same as using up one battery then swapping to the next, except it does this automatically.

If you try to parallel packs without some type of protection like a switcher or true parallel protected adapter, you'd have to make sure you match the voltages 'exactly' when plugging them in, and use 2 similar packs with similar age.  If that's too much trouble, just mount the second pack unplugged and switch manually when the first pack runs out.  Parallel connection of 2 packs at different voltages without protection will cause a potentially huge current from one to the other, causing all sorts of problems including fire and explosions.

Alternatively, you can get another pack with a higher AH rating.  The stock Rad packs are 48 volts at 14AH.  You can get a triangle pack, but personally, I don't like the way they're mounted just sitting in a bag velcro'd to the frame.  I've found a newer battery case that might just work for my RadRover5 mounted in the stock location on the downtube.  If built using the newish Samsung 50E cells, it'll get just shy of 20AH at 48 volts, a range increase of 1.4 times.  I just need to verify the fit, then start building them.  If all works out, I may start building them for sale for those interested, but that could be a ways out with the current delays in sourcing cells worldwide.

The easiest thing to do if you "need it right now" is to just get another Rad pack if you can, mount it disconnected on a rear rack, and manually switch when you run out.  It'll double your range with very minimal effort.

Quote from: Tony on September 07, 2021, 05:30:45 AM
Tell us about this new battery Dan

Off topic for this thread, but I'll start a new one if people are interested.  It's the Reention Jumbo Shark DP-5C 21700 case (same case available from other brands as well).  Holds 52 21700 cells good for 48 volts in a 13s4p configuration.  If the Samsung 50E cells ever become available again, it'll work out to just shy of 20AH at 48V.  I've taken the schematics and made a cutout with the dimensions.  Seems to fit just right.  It's a little shorter than the stock case, but taller.  Clears all the tubes with what looks like enough room to slide the pack in and out of the mounting bracket.  I plan on getting the case as a test dummy first, and confirming the fit.  Then when the cells become available, buying a batch for the first pack.  Figure a 40amp smart BMS should work nicely.  If all goes okay, I may start buying cells and cases in bulk to build for sale with an adapter for the stock Rad connectors charger.  Just need to upgrade my cell testing setup to handle the volume. 

Personally, I went specifically for a RadRover 5 because of the non-integrated battery and controller.  I like to tinker and being locked into a proprietary inside-the-frame battery was a no-go for me.  Down the road, when (not if) the battery dies, I can just swap it out with another non-rad custom pack mounted on the downtube, something you probably can't do with the new RadRover 6.  I've already found a 21700 case that will deliver 20AH.  A new controller will take care of the torque deficit.  That's just me though...

I was surprised at the weight of the new controller compared to the stock unit on a Canadian Radrover 5.  It's larger, but quite a bit lighter than the stock unit.  The stock unit is built like a tank, whereas the new 35A unit is a thin sheet metal enclosure.  Longevity is up in the air in my opinion, but I've experienced nothing negative so far for the short time I've had it. 

Performance wise, it's working out great.  I ride with pedal assist and rarely throttle only.  What I wanted was a bit more grunt off the line to get me through intersections quickly and get me up to speed, pedaling on chain gear 6 usually at most.  More speed isn't my priority.  This new controller provides a much needed torque boost to help out my aging knees.  Using the Bolton settings seems just about perfect.  His C5=6 setting limits the power slightly, probably to reduce wear on the stock motor.  I did change C4 to 3, allowing me to use the throttle while in PAS0. 

Wattage wise with the Bolton settings, the max I've seen is around 1200 watts or so off the line on PAS5 while accelerating (or throttle only acceleration), but quickly drops back down when you hit a steady speed.  I tend to ride at PAS 1 or 2, and it draws around 60watts and 200watts respectively at speed.  If I remember correctly, PAS5 steady speed draw on is around 500-600watts.  Range given the way I ride hasn't really changed at all.  An excellent upgrade!

I do have some money put aside for the 750watt motor upgrade down the road though.  I don't expect the stock motor to give me problems the way I ride at the moment, but I think prolonged heavy use like riding up hills will certainly stress the stock motor to burning out given the wattages this controller can supply.

Not sure about Tile, but Apple Airtags won't really work if the thief has an iPhone.  If your iPhone detects an unknown Airtag following you, it will alert you and you can disable it.  This is to prevent people from surreptitiously tracking other people for nefarious reasons.

Buy bike insurance!  Bicycle theft insurance is pretty cheap.  And register your bike on bike theft platforms like 529 Garage and others.

Cheers!

Quote from: d0n on September 01, 2021, 01:25:45 PM
Hi all ...whats a nice comfortable seat for a rad runner plus? This stock seat is absolutely horrible.

Also, I bought a SR SUNTOUR SP12 NCX suspension seat post (31.6X400mm) but it's too fat to fit where the stock post does. What size seat post is this?

thanks

-Don

The stock post is 390 mm x 27.2 mm.  You'll probably want the 27.2x400mm NCX SP12.  Remember that the suspension post arcs backwards during compression, so you need your seat set high enough to avoid the rear platform.  If you normally ride with the seat at it's lowest, the NCX probably won't work for you.

As for seats, I tried a Bell Comfort Wide Cruiser on my RadRover https://amzn.to/3pLZkjx and it was very comfortable, but the problem is it interferes with pedaling at close to full leg extension.  If you ride with your seat low with moderately bent legs during pedaling (cruiser style), I think it's a huge bargain.  Very comfy.  The one I use now is a generic 8" wide comfort foam saddle that works quite well and allows me to ride for hours https://amzn.to/3nDSugX.  It's also a bargain on amazon.

Good luck!

That's a perfect clarification!  Thanks!  👍👍

If anyone's wondering how to install the 35A controller upgrade, there's a very simple solution using part of the stock mounting bracket.  Go to the hardware store and look for some generic stainless steel u-bolts.  What you're looking for specifically is the bar that the u-bolt inserts into.  The u-bolt itself can be tossed.  The ones I purchased are 2121xB with an inside diameter of 1-1/8".  Google search 2121xB and you'll find a ton.  You need two of them (make sure they have the bars!), four 8-32 1.75" long machine screws, and four 8-32 nylock nuts.

The mounting tabs of the controller are flimsy so we can't bolt directly to it without reinforcement, thus, the u-bolt bars.  Use the stock clamp from the original controller, put the 8-32 1.75" screws through the holes and place around the frame.  Now, insert the bar from the u-bolt on first!  This is what provides the reinforcement.  You'll want to insert a thin piece of rubber between the bar and the frame to prevent damage to the frame.  Next, mount the controller then the nylock nuts.  Tighten the nuts equally on both sides.  Done.

I wish I took pictures during the install to show the steps, but it's simple enough to figure out.  Just make sure you put the bar between the controller and the frame as that is what's providing the mounting reinforcement needed.  Attached are pics of the finished mount.

Don't you have to be mindful of how the battery BMS balances the cells in the pack?  From what I've seen, different BMS's will start their balancing stage after different charge voltage thresholds.  This is one of the reasons why Rad Power recommends leaving the battery charging for up to 12 hours on the first initial few cycles.  If you consistently charge up to a specific lower voltage and that voltage isn't high enough to trip the balancing mode of the BMS in the pack, you run the risk of throwing the cells out of balance and causing big fiery problems down the road.  Have you looked into how the BMS on the Rad batteries balance the cells?

-Dan