May be no such model. My UPP came with Anderson plugs, but I found an Anderson-to-Rad cable that did the trick. See my post here:

https://www.radowners.com/index.php/topic,9559.0.html

Quote from: Veggyhed on August 29, 2023, 10:12:22 PM
...  how to securely attach the battery rack to the underside of the rack. ...

Can't say for sure without seeing the bike, but if there's a way, it probably involves bolting the tray/plate to the underside of the rack, assuming there's room for the battery between the rack and the rear fender. If your tray/plate if like mine, it's not necessary to use the screws that came with the tray/plate. Get some longer screws that still fit into the holes in the tray/plate and run them through the tray/plate, the rack, and some large metal pieces the go on top of the rack. I'm not sure what metal pieces might be needed, but browse in a good hardware store and look for very large washers with appropriately small holes (fender washers, I think they're called) or mending plates or whatever the hardware store might have. If you can't find anything, go to a machine shop and have them make you a metal plate the fits on top of the rack. Or, get some strong wood (e.g., oak) about 1/2 - 3/4 inch thick, cut it to fit on top of the rack, and run the screws through the wood. Then bolt the tray/plate to the rack. It may be hard to slide the battery into the tray/plate, depending on how much room there is underneath the rack.

I just added a second battery to my Rad City 3 Step-Thru. Here's a little photo essay showing what I did.

https://mrochkind.com/bike/battery/

Quote from: netjamer on October 04, 2021, 06:25:10 AM
Brand new rad rover 6- the bike has 50 miles- one day of perfect operation, then the no throttle and no PAS problem.. The brake "flick" seems to be correcting the issue. My concern is that it seems to be happening every time I use the brakes?!.. Is there something behind this issue that can prevent it from happeneng in the first place>?

At first, I was convinced a too-tight front brake was the problem. One time when I had no motor, I loosened the brake cable and the motor came back. But, still, from time-to-time, I had no motor. Then I tightened the motor connector, and since then (about a week) the problem has not recurred, so I'm hoping that was it. This connector is much larger than the others and is on the left side of the bike, between the battery and the motor. (See photo.)

Quote from: Joel52334 on September 23, 2021, 11:04:37 PM
Use your brain, RTFM...

Unnecessarily rude.

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Quote from: DCH3416 on September 24, 2021, 04:18:01 PM
Yeah it's the big connector on the back left hand side of the bike, the side with the brake rotor. Runs right next to brake line from the rear caliper. You might have to clip a zip tie to get some slack to unplug it.

With the bike on a stand, I was able to recreate the problem -- including spinning for a second before stopping -- by wiggling the connector. So, I gave it a good squeeze, which wasn't that easy. I used a big spring clamp to clamp one side to the frame, gripped the other side with pliers, and gave it a few taps so seat it.

Maybe this is the solution... I'll have to wait a few weeks to be sure.

Thanks again, DCH3416!

Quote from: DCH3416 on September 24, 2021, 04:18:01 PM

Quote from: NeedSomePower on September 24, 2021, 03:21:23 PM

Quote from: DCH3416 on September 24, 2021, 01:35:46 PM
The brake light should only come on when you're pulling the brake lever.

When this issue happens, does immediately turning your bike off and back on fix it?

No.

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Only other thing that comes to mind. Unplug and plug the motor cable. Maybe that's slightly loose and it's causing intermittent faults. It would match why you're observing no throttle and PAS. Also the display does not error out for that condition as it would for if say a brake lever was stuck or other general electronic fault.

Thanks for this tip. Is it obvious where this connector is?

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Quote from: DCH3416 on September 24, 2021, 01:35:46 PM
The brake light should only come on when you're pulling the brake lever.

When this issue happens, does immediately turning your bike off and back on fix it?

No.

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Quote from: Radtothebone on September 03, 2021, 10:58:39 PM
To make sure it's not the brakes, just disconnect the brake lever electrical connectors and see if the throttle and pas work. Not a good idea to ride it that way, but a good way to isolate the issue.

Disconnected right and left electrical connections to brake levers, and problem persists. Also, when the problem occurs, the brake light is NOT on. So, probably not in the area of the brake levers.

Ordered a RadCity Step-Thru on Aug. 21. Arrived on Aug. 27. Shipment to Colorado.

The theory I'm leaning toward is an out-of-adjustment brake. My front brake lever had very little travel, so I think it may have triggered the motor-cutoff/stop light while at rest. I loosened it. Next time this happens, I'll see if the brake light is on.

But if my theory is correct, with the brake looser, it may never happen again.

Thanks, DCH3416, but I'm unable to check out the brake lights because now the bike is operating normally.

This has now happened twice: No power (PAS or throttle) at 7 - 8 AM. Problem clears up a few hours later with bike just sitting. The first time it had just come off the charger, so I thought maybe the battery was hot, but today it had not been charged.

It's true that the garage is colder earlier, but it's a small range. Maybe 60 degrees F at 7 AM and maybe 70 a few hours later.

My RadCity Step-Thru 3 is new, just assembled on Friday. Saturday morning about 8AM, after charging for 12 hours, the bike turned on, but no PAS or throttle. Came back later that day, and everything normal. Rode it OK Sunday and Monday afternoons. Then, this morning (not left on charger) about 8AM, same thing. No PAS or throttle.

No error codes. Battery is nearly fully charged.

This morning, as a test, I lifted the rear and turned the throttle. The wheel started to turn and then stopped.

My first guess would be a loose connection. Any idea where exactly to look?

Another idea: The brake-activated motor cutoff switch. When I got the bike, the front brake was way too tight, and I adjusted it. Maybe the switch that disables power when the brakes are applied isn't releasing? Any idea where exactly that switch is?

There are a lot of posts around about two problems: (1) Bike won't turn on, or (2) no PAS but good throttle. My problem is neither of those.

Thanks!

I'd get that frame lock, except that it's out of stock last I checked.

Rather than run a cable through the seat rails, I'm just replacing the quick-release, as I'm the only rider.

My bike will be here in a few days so what am I doing? Obsessing over how to lock it up, that's what. ;-)

I already have two very good U-locks, one long and one normal, and it seems to me that I can lock up the new bike with the two locks used as in the photo. Because of the battery, there are fewer places to put the main lock (the one that attaches to the rack) as there would be on a non-powered bike, but I think I've found a place, assuming the shape of the rack cooperates.

What do you think of the place I've identified?

And, what do you think of a single smaller U-lock to lock the front wheel to the frame?

Thanks!