Plug & Play Dual Battery Kit for Rad Rover 6+

[Tree]

although I once said I would be just as happy carrying an extra battery on my bike and just swapping it out, I decided that being forced into buying a rad-branded semi-integrated battery just to have this second battery goes against my core beliefs.

And then I saw this video https://youtu.be/jcXB6IhmAA4?si=5h2swvHD5MaUi8SW earlier in the week, and am now contemplating ordering this kit, as well as another battery from a reputable company that I might actually also be able to use on non-Rad bikes.

Installing seems relatively easy and straight forward, and certainly easier than changing on a flat on the bike tire of my RR6+.

Has anyone had experience with this? thoughts?

[crorris]

I have this on my Rad Rover 5 and on my Lectric Trike. It works great. I have 4 Rad batteries and 1 Lectric battery and I can put two of those at a time on either of my bikes.

[Tree]

I have this on my Rad Rover 5 and on my Lectric Trike. It works great. I have 4 Rad batteries and 1 Lectric battery and I can put two of those at a time on either of my bikes.

and to confirm, you don't NEED to use the rad batteries on the rad bike, right? any 48V battery will do?

[inoxa]

You don't have to have RAD batteries because RAD didn't make the batteries.  They very similar to the Shark batteries if not a Shark battery.  The main thing you need to take into consideration is who makes the battery cells.  Stay with high quality cells like LG, Panasonic, and Samsung.  And if you are using batteries as you posted they do need to be the same 48v. 

Take a look at the following video if you want more power and speed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=By9bQH4eMdA

[crorris]

Correct. You can use any batteries (and mount/wiring). You just need the correct cables/adapters to match the battery to the combiner.

[Tree]

You don't have to have RAD batteries because RAD didn't make the batteries.  They very similar to the Shark batteries if not a Shark battery.  The main thing you need to take into consideration is who makes the battery cells.  Stay with high quality cells like LG, Panasonic, and Samsung.  And if you are using batteries as you posted they do need to be the same 48v. 

Take a look at the following video if you want more power and speed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=By9bQH4eMdA

shit man, this aging punk rocker feels like the king of the world when cruising downhill at 30 mph. i'm not sure i can handle more power and speed. lol

that being said, once I figure out the battery part (electrical stuff is definitely not my forte), i might move in this direction. example of my rudimentaryness - if i get the aforementioned second battery connection, i'm presuming i need to find a battery with an XT60 connector, or is this a relatively easy thing to handle that doesn't need (or maybe it does) soldering?

this is actually one of the batteries i'm strongly considering - https://em3ev.com/shop/em3ev-48v-13s4p-super-shark-ebike-battery/ - ordering it with the XT60 on Discharge Cable, which is what I believe i need with the above adapter...

[inoxa]

You may not have to do any soldiering if you get the right connecting cables.

Guy on youtube that many follow is: Citizencycle

He has done several upgrades some on RADs.  Very informative.

[inoxa]

You don't have to have RAD batteries because RAD didn't make the batteries.  They very similar to the Shark batteries if not a Shark battery.  The main thing you need to take into consideration is who makes the battery cells.  Stay with high quality cells like LG, Panasonic, and Samsung.  And if you are using batteries as you posted they do need to be the same 48v. 

Take a look at the following video if you want more power and speed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=By9bQH4eMdA

shit man, this aging punk rocker feels like the king of the world when cruising downhill at 30 mph. i'm not sure i can handle more power and speed. lol

that being said, once I figure out the battery part (electrical stuff is definitely not my forte), i might move in this direction. example of my rudimentaryness - if i get the aforementioned second battery connection, i'm presuming i need to find a battery with an XT60 connector, or is this a relatively easy thing to handle that doesn't need (or maybe it does) soldering?

this is actually one of the batteries i'm strongly considering - https://em3ev.com/shop/em3ev-48v-13s4p-super-shark-ebike-battery/ - ordering it with the XT60 on Discharge Cable, which is what I believe i need with the above adapter...

This video is good for torque going up hills and from dead stops.  Very helpful for me.  Also gives the power to get out of the way if needed to quickly.  You get used to the speed if you want it.

[crorris]

That seems correct. You will want an XT60 connector coming from the battery's mounting cradle to connect to the power combiner.

[spyder918]

Trying to understand if this kit allows you to plug both batteries?  Then does it drain one battery then auto switch to the 2nd one?

[crorris]

It lets you connect both batteries and drains them both at the same time. It's not where it uses one fully and then switches to the other. It uses the both until they are both used up.

[Tree]

It lets you connect both batteries and drains them both at the same time. It's not where it uses one fully and then switches to the other. It uses the both until they are both used up.

it just occurred to me - how does the stock Rad battery indicator on the handlebars work in conjunction with two batteries running together - essentially no different than if it's one battery?

[crorris]

I didn't notice any difference other than it took about twice as long for each bar to drop off. 

[beardedboredguy]

I didn't notice any difference other than it took about twice as long for each bar to drop off.

I messaged ElectricAllWheel to ask them specifically about this. They said that the dual batteries are basically seen as one and that it should behave exactly as you described.


I ordered my kit yesterday and now need to decide which battery to go with. The smaller 10ah one that they recommend on the YouTube video seems to be the most hassle free since it will fit inside the main triangle on the bike, but I'm tempted to get the 20ah one and attach it to my rear rack.

Choices, choices, choices.

[crorris]

I would go with the larger one if it was me. I go on a lot of long rides though where I can end up going through even 3 or 4 batteries. On my long rides I'm going for several days and have my trailer on my bike with clothes, batteries, food, etc. that add up in weight. On these trips, my 14AH batteries get me about 18 to 20 miles each on PAS level 2. I have about 80lbs. of extra weight and sometimes go up to 70 miles in a day. If you don't go on longer rides and don't have a lot of weight on your bike, the smaller one may be fine.