Rad Runner Mods

[dan26ntn]

I've been looking around for a bit , trying to pin down a well made suspension fork for the RadRunner , and I did see the Bolton fork, but there is also an RST Guide 20 . Is there a reason that one wouldn't fit? I believe Bitrix sells them at around $250 USD  and https://classic-cycle.com/all/3064/204-suspension-fork-rst-guide-20-zoll-tnl-fatbike-1-1/8-ahead-for-disc-brake  . I don't know enough about the different details to know if it would be a better quality and fit than Boltons option.

hmmmm...specs make it appear to be a good and viable option -

Steerer length: 260 mm

Steerer diameter / stem width: 28,6 mm

Steerer daiemeter at cone seat: 30 mm

Installation hight: 420 mm

For Hub width: 135 mm

Travel: 45 mm

Ssytem: Coil in left stanchion

Damping: Oil in right stanchion

When they say, "installation height" ; is that referring to the crown to axle measurement that Bolton states on theirs? If so, the RST looks to be a bit shorter, which may solve that kickstand and short people problem .

[992023515]

I like the custom seat. The front wheel seems a bit farther forward though and the handle bars seem lower. The front wheel looks to be 4 inches out from the frame where the regular fork holds the wheel about an inch away. Does that affect the ride?

[Count]

Nice job.  Looks just like mine. Your process was very similar to mine.  I like the look of your brass spacers; I used stainless.  My fender was installed when I bought the bike, and it was apparently installed backwards.  With the struts in front, I also had to do a bit of fabrication and bending, and ultimately used the axle as a mounting point for the strut.  I did need to make a longer axle, but that was a breeze with a piece of Stainless threaded rod, BUT I like yours much better!  Frankly, it was an easy job, and I did not need to modify anything on the bike frame, no drilling needed!  However, again, I like and recommend using the strut mounts on the rear of the fork legs like you did!

Howdy, I just installed the Bolton forks also. I used 1/2 inch brass spacers. So far the brakes work well. The forks are fantastic, compare a Jeep to a limo on a washboard gravel road. The fender struts required a lot of bending to fit to the fork holes.

[dan26ntn]

Howdy, I just installed the Bolton forks also. I used 1/2 inch brass spacers. So far the brakes work well. The forks are fantastic, compare a Jeep to a limo on a washboard gravel road. The fender struts required a lot of bending to fit to the fork holes.

Do you have any other pics of your installation? A bit further away to show the overall front end profile?

[wkindred]

I've been looking around for a bit , trying to pin down a well made suspension fork for the RadRunner , and I did see the Bolton fork, but there is also an RST Guide 20 . Is there a reason that one wouldn't fit? I believe Bitrix sells them at around $250 USD  and https://classic-cycle.com/all/3064/204-suspension-fork-rst-guide-20-zoll-tnl-fatbike-1-1/8-ahead-for-disc-brake  . I don't know enough about the different details to know if it would be a better quality and fit than Boltons option.

hmmmm...specs make it appear to be a good and viable option -

Steerer length: 260 mm

Steerer diameter / stem width: 28,6 mm

Steerer daiemeter at cone seat: 30 mm

Installation hight: 420 mm

For Hub width: 135 mm

Travel: 45 mm

Ssytem: Coil in left stanchion

Damping: Oil in right stanchion

the only issue i see with using this fork on the radrunner 1 is that there is no accommodation for fender mounts...

[dan26ntn]

 I believe the fender mounts just like it does on the Radrunner Plus, which is on the very bottom of the lowers and it's drilled for the top mount (of the fender) as well. Also  , I think Radpower's explanation of why they won't offer the RR+fork separately for the older RR1 customers is a bunch of bull. How in the world is the tire going to hit the frame? It's not like they HAVE to sell us anything, but for people that bought one before the RR+ was available; it'd be nice to have that upgrade. https://www.biktrix.com/products/rst-guide-fork

[Count]

The fender mounting does present a minor obstacle, but frankly 30 minutes with a couple of pliers, and some trial and error bending the struts, and the fender can be mounted up nicely.  Bob Mc and I both got our fenders mounted cleanly, in 2 different ways.  I actually like his better, but fender mounting is not even close to an insurmountable issue! 

I believe the fender mounts just like it does on the Radrunner Plus, which is on the very bottom of the lowers and it's drilled for the top mount (of the fender) as well. Also  , I think Radpower's explanation of why they won't offer the RR+fork separately for the older RR1 customers is a bunch of bull. How in the world is the tire going to hit the frame? It's not like they HAVE to sell us anything, but for people that bought one before the RR+ was available; it'd be nice to have that upgrade. https://www.biktrix.com/products/rst-guide-fork

[Count]

Just wait until you devise some sort of seat suspension, and you will REALLY feel like you are in a limo!  I observed the same center stand issue as you did after the front end installation, but failed to equate it to the new front fork installation!  I thought I had somehow done some damage to the stand legs, and have been trying to devise a way to correct the issue.  I'll post back if and when I come up with something!

Howdy, I just installed the Bolton forks also. I used 1/2 inch brass spacers. So far the brakes work well. The forks are fantastic, compare a Jeep to a limo on a washboard gravel road. The fender struts required a lot of bending to fit to the fork holes.

[mbates50]

Which bike did you install the Bolton 35 amp controller? Their website sounds kinda iffy with the Rad City

[Zbugsii]

New storage and large crate for carrying stuff and groceries

[Kevin Turtle]

Added rear signal lights with laser lane markers, seat, accessory bar on handlebars where I mount my dji mavic air 2 controller, horn, bolton controller and display upgrade just cleared customs, next up will be fatty slicks. Also added some skull decals on battery and center console and white spoke sleeves. Future also will have upgraded battery and add front suspension

[Altema]

Added rear signal lights with laser lane markers, seat, accessory bar on handlebars where I mount my dji mavic air 2 controller, horn, bolton controller and display upgrade just cleared customs, next up will be fatty slicks. Also added some skull decals on battery and center console and white spoke sleeves. Future also will have upgraded battery and add front suspension

Nice setup! Is that a custom trailer, and what's it like pulling it?

[Hbomb]

Count wrote:

" A Bolton suspension front end, 35 amp controller (mounted exactly where the original mounts, in a waterproof enclosure); A new TRUE 1000w Baffang motor (which makes a HUGE difference in power)...."

Hi count please let me know how the install of the 1000w motor went for you with the cable exit being on the brake side. I am in the market for a 750 watt with the correct cable exit, but can only find 1000 watt on Ali Express website. Thanks! -Heidi

[LargeBlueSpruce]

I'm in the process of removing the Bolton (Area 13 shock).  The installation went fine.  I had to install the spacers for the brakes and longer screws, but no big deal. 

The issue I'm having is something about the bikes geometry is off and the turning is very squirrely (can't ride with no hands).  I've adjusted the handle bars several times, but it just doesn't feel right. Area 13 has agreed to accept my return and I've informed them I don't believe this shock fits the Rad Runner II properly.

I'm surprised you like the Bolton Shock on your Rad Runner II.  I've found it to be unrideable.  Anyone else have the same experience?  I'd love to find an option that maintains the same geometry.  Thanks

[handlebar]

The problem is so common among modern bikes that I've seen videos where experts say you need to practice taking one hand off the bar on a deserted road so that if you need to take your hand off the bar to signal or for some other reason, you wouldn't crash.

It was so severe with my Radrunner 1 that until I modified it, I had tennis elbow from trying to control it when I had to take one hand off the bar to signal. The biggest problem was the seat position. The pavement around here is rough, so I needed to stabilize my upper body. With only one hand on the bars, it took tremendous torsion on my elbow to brace myself while keeping the bar straight. It wasn't safe.

Moving the seat back several inches fixed that. Now I could brace with my feet against the pedals, making control with one hand easy and safer. I could even ride with no hands, but I didn't like it. There were other problems.

When a bike tips, the contact patch tire of the tire moves to that side of the tire's centerline, and that pulls the bars to that side. With no hands, that could cause a crash if it pulled the handlebars too far. Trail counteracts that tendency. My Radrunner has 6 cm of trail. That would be fine for a tire an inch wide, the Radrunner tires are 3.3 inches wide. I think more trail would make it safer.

Then there's head angle, the angle of the steering axis from horizontal. The farther it is from 90 degrees, the more turning the handlebars moves the contact patch in that direction, with respect to the rider more than with respect to the tire's centerline. Leaning with no hands can cause the contact patch to move just far enough to bring the bike vertical and return the steering to it's original direction. It's a sort of autopilot.

My Radrunner 1 has a 70 degree steering head angle. There's not much autopilot effect, and if it started to turn sharply I'd need to grab the bars fast, not only to steer but to stabilize myself. For some reason, steering heads these days are often even steeper.

I grew up with English bikes having a 66-degree head angle. Turning required a bit of countersteering to get the contact patches out from under me so I could lean. On the way back from the municipal pool I'd come down a side street with a grade of about 20%. On a bicycle, that seemed a bit like freefall. The stop sign at the bottom required heavy use of the brakes. They were rim calipers, so cooling was excellent. It would have been dangerous with a coaster brake.

I used to spare my brakes by grabbing two corners of my towel with each hand and holding it behind my head like the parachute on a dragster. When it opened at that speed, it would jerk me. The bike would continue straight until I provided handlebar input. It was a far more effective air brake than initially expected. I needed only a little use of the calipers as I approached the stop sign.

I think head angle is the most import factor in hands-free riding, but changing forks would not have changed your head angle. Your front tire may look well inflated, but I think its pressure is lower than when you used to ride hands free. With less pressure, the contact patch on that fat tire would move farther from side to side as the bike tipped, and that would pull the handlebars in that direction. As you say, squirrely.