It does sound like the motor has an issue.  Is motor cable connector on the left or PORT side?  If so you can't open the motor up to check or repair.  Have you tried flipping the bike upside down to diagnose?  movement of the wheel....

You could try AREA13 for a replacement motor and they will even help with diagnosis.  They respond fairly quickly. 

Not sure why it worked before and now after shortage it doesn't work. 

Best of luck.  Let us know what comes of the motor issue.

yes new controller is more power but I have already gotten used to a different bike with tons more power. so that's why i say some extra power. I have the upgraded controller with a new motor and was very pleased until the bike needed a new battery.

Area13 should have that motor and may have a true 750 bufang motor as well.

you may know but it is a fairly simple swapping of the motor to into your wheel.

I is most likely the controller.  The rectangular box on your bike.  Area13 has the upgraded version giving you a little more power and a new color LCD screen.

Check out Citizencycle on youtube.  He is unpaid and has done several reviews on different ebikes including Himiway.  He has done upgrades on many bikes as well.  He does range tests and motor performances too. Maybe that will give you more guidance.   

I have a Rover 5 and a Wired step thru.  The wired has a larger battery much more powerful.  It is a larger bike but rides nicely.  The Rover is probably a better size for me.  If I had to do it over again, I would just order a larger battery for the Rover.  I already have the upgraded controller and upgraded True Bufang 750 watt motor on it.  A few other tweaks I may make is increase the front COG larger with more teeth and raise the handle bars.  Of course the battery larger 52watt and 20 plus Amp. (52 will only work with upgraded controller)  Already know the battery just deciding if I should invest.

I saw on youtube of a guy who had a semi battery bike NON RAD....anyway he bent his frame because the structure is weakened with the new design.  It was a step thru bike.

The easiest option you have is to replace the controller.  If you are going to do it, then go with an upgraded controller to 35 amps. It will give you more power and some extra speed.  Area 13 has them usually in stock.  You will also get an easier to read color LCD screen.

all original equipment and electronics?

do you use lots of throttle?
is it difficult to remove the battery?

if yes to first question then yes to the second, it may mean that the wiring may have melted.
report back and I can let you know what happened to me and how i corrected it.

Have you installed an different headlight?  Aftermarket headlights can burn up Rad controllers.

Hopefully it is under warranty and you receive a new controller.  If not and you have to have lights you can either go with battery operated lights or a new controller.  If you decide a new controller, I suggest you upgrade to a 35amp for more power and color screen. 

Area 13 carries the upgraded controllers and the screens as a kit.  They do sell out from time to time.

One guy on this forum bought a used partly functioning controller and salvaged parts from it to make his work.  Inside the controller there are 2 small boards that control either the front light or the rear.  They are the same part for either light.  He replaced those to make his lights work.

do you have the original light that came with RAD bike?  some aftermarket lights can burn out the new controllers.

Quote from: Ddaybc on February 17, 2024, 01:06:58 PM
DickB I've been contemplating either an upgraded controller and display or simply get the EggRider. I'm going to make my final decision if/when I have to. For my purposes the stock motor is enough but I want more hill climbing ability, especially when loaded with cargo.

This video may help you make that decision.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=By9bQH4eMdA

Quote from: Tree on February 16, 2024, 09:27:09 AM

Quote from: inoxa on February 15, 2024, 10:02:21 AM
You don't have to have RAD batteries because RAD didn't make the batteries.  They very similar to the Shark batteries if not a Shark battery.  The main thing you need to take into consideration is who makes the battery cells.  Stay with high quality cells like LG, Panasonic, and Samsung.  And if you are using batteries as you posted they do need to be the same 48v. 

Take a look at the following video if you want more power and speed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=By9bQH4eMdA

shit man, this aging punk rocker feels like the king of the world when cruising downhill at 30 mph. i'm not sure i can handle more power and speed. lol

that being said, once I figure out the battery part (electrical stuff is definitely not my forte), i might move in this direction. example of my rudimentaryness - if i get the aforementioned second battery connection, i'm presuming i need to find a battery with an XT60 connector, or is this a relatively easy thing to handle that doesn't need (or maybe it does) soldering?

this is actually one of the batteries i'm strongly considering - https://em3ev.com/shop/em3ev-48v-13s4p-super-shark-ebike-battery/ - ordering it with the XT60 on Discharge Cable, which is what I believe i need with the above adapter...

This video is good for torque going up hills and from dead stops.  Very helpful for me.  Also gives the power to get out of the way if needed to quickly.  You get used to the speed if you want it.

You may not have to do any soldiering if you get the right connecting cables.

Guy on youtube that many follow is: Citizencycle

He has done several upgrades some on RADs.  Very informative.