The bafang bbshd are a mid drive motor where Rad uses a hub motor so they are two very different systems that can't be compared. But yes hill climbing will over heat a motor and shorten its live.

What you have read about melting gears is related to mid drive motors, power and user abuse. This is happening to bikes with 48v 25a controllers on a 1000 w motor well above the class 2 bikes Rad sells. The rider is applying  to much torque at low or no speed ( wheelies and burn outs) and because of the power of these motors the plastic gears are being stripped out then spinning at high speed to make it look like it melted.

The torque on a hub motor isn't any where near that of a mid drive so you would have to be asking a lot of a hub motor to over heat the motor or strip the gears.

The Samsung 35E batteries are rated for 3.5 amps with a nominal voltage of 3.6 so I would say the batteries are 4p 14s. They could save a little by only going 13s but I haven't thrown a volt meter on one. The one extra s isn't going to make much difference since the controller is only 750 watts might add an extra couple of miles.

From the rad wagon page:

Hub Motor
Geared Hub Motor with 5:1 Planetary Reduction

Looks like a rebranded Bafang motor but till we get someone who has one reporting we won't know the specifics of the motor

Well Rad doesn't have a color display so you'll have to be more specific. We'd like to help But need all the details.

From the Mini owners manual:

. Turn on the headlight and taillight if needed or desired. Once the LCD display is on, hold down the top (up arrow) and middle (mode) buttons (located on the LCD display Remote) for approximately 2-3 seconds until the lights illuminate.

Not sure if all the Rads use the same light but there is also a switch on top of the light for on and off at least on the Runner. The back part of the light rotates left or right and the light will not turn on unless it is in the on position. You should also see the back light of the lcd illuminate when the light comes on. If the back light of the lcd comes on but not the front light look for the switch.

I would be interested in where you got the battery and a schematic of the wiring. Looks cool.

I have pretty much the same setup and love the cushioned ride along with about 25 psi inch the tires. But there is a trade off that the seat is about 4 inches higher which takes away some of that low rider feel. Haven't decided if I like it but I do like a comfy seat.

I found this thread on EBR about Error 30

https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/error-30-maintain-on-radrover.11903/

Sounds like a bugger to solve but a new controller along with really going over the connectors seems to solve it. Hope you get back on the road soon.

Another weekend for upgrades, this time I wanted to see if I could put on a 5 speed sprocket. The only real hurdle was finding a sprocket that had a large enough hole in the center to fit over the plug and nut. Pretty much ruled out anything over a six speed. Picked up the parts at the local Recyclery along with with seven feet of cable tubing.

Once again the sprocket was a challenge but having just putting it on and the handy tool I'd made wasn't near the struggle of the first time. Sprocket went on easily and the new derailuer is now located on the outside of the frame. Fished the tube through the frame up the the left handle where there was room for the shifter.

So I now have a 4 speed runner and it is a pleasure to pedal now even with pas at zero can cruise around with no problems. I say a 4 speed because I'm not able to get to fifth yet, the derailuer is completely horizontal in fourth so I need to add a longer chain.

Once again love the runner and the upgrades are just making it even better.

Steel replacement gears are available on eBay. I would think brass is a bit to soft for a replacement, why are you thinking brass?

Finally have all the Bolton Bike upgrades so decided to go off the deep end and install the motor, controller and lcd on my Runner. Yes the motor is a drop in replacement and the controller is zip tied to the skid plate till I have time to make better fitting one. That is about the only "drop in" part of the upgrade.

The motor can have a single speed sprocket or multi cassette, so the axle is about 3/8 inch wider then the original so a little lateral force is needed to get the shoulder washers into the correct place. Once those are in place the brake pads need to be adjusted out for better alignment. The derailer though is a little worse, needs to be mounted on the inside of the frame but still doesn't quite line up given the difference in the axle width.

Ok I'll quite whining and give you the info you really want. I thought the runner was fun but now it is even better. Quick off the start, max out at around 25 depending on the road and will climb hills with no problems. Hills that would drop the speed to 15 now I climb them at 20 pumping 1300 watts to the motor. Funnest darn bike ever!!!!

One last problem I had was getting the single speed sprocket off, that thing is on tight. Of course I didn't have the nut to make it easy but was able to mill one on the CNC and it still took a good three hours of struggling to get it off.

So in the end I'm happy with the upgrade but it is certainly not a drop in replacement. I'm thinking I can add a six speed cassette to it with a real derailer that would definitely make the bike more comfortable to pedal. The price is a little high but my E grin is even bigger now.

Try dropping the tire pressure to about 25 psi. Smother ride and less likely to be punctured. I've had the runner since March and no punctures yet (knock on wood).