possibly your motor gears have crumbled inside the housing. 

do you hear any noise from the motor?
any wattage reading on the LCD?

Here are search words

Hailong Battery Male and Female Connector Plugs

I got the ones with soldiered wiring attached

The battery connector can't be that expensive. Anyone that knows where to get one fast online?
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It isn't expensive.  But you probably should buy both ends battery and cradle to be safe.
Amazon and ebay both have them in stock.

Here are your key words to search for it.

Hailong Battery Male and Female Connector Plugs

That is a GOOD question. 

I would expect it is the display. 

Maybe you can ask the question on the part number of the controller vs your part number. 

It would be software that controls it and that would still go through the display. 

Why not just buy the upgraded controller and display.  It is about $200 US for both.  Then you have a color display which is easier to read and navigate through.

Once you crack open the cradle, you may see melted insulation around the wiring.  That's what I had.  The wiring in the battery is better insulated.  The only reason I replaced the battery side was because the  plastic melted and expanded and wouldn't fit into the cradle. 

The 3 center pins are dummies. I think they are only used for aligning the battery into the cradle.

 

It looks alike aluminum.  Find you a a welder who works on aluminum and have him weld a bead or 2 where it usually needs to stop.  This may be your only option if manufacturer doesn't come through.

Looks like the Rovers are in line with Pre-Pandemic pricing but some adjustment for inflation.

Their City Bike must be their bread and butter holding the price higher.

The trike must be a bust.  Maybe another Mission in the making to disappear.

Have you disconnected the headlight and tail light and seeing it will run disconnected? 

Have you installed an aftermarket headlight?  These have caused an overload of the controller. 

My problem was the battery cradle connection melted wiring.  I had to replace the connectors.  You might have to do that or replace the cradle.

I have seen them on facebook market place and ebay.

Haven't had the exact problem, but similar.  Do you use the throttle for long runs?  If so the battery cradle wiring may have over heated and melted.  For me I noticed it first when I had a hard time taking battery out to charge.  I had to replace the battery connectors on both the battery and cradle to make the repair.  Once I changed it no more issues.

Only way to know if you had melting is to smell it for electrical odor and/or open the cradle and look for melted wires.

Only 2 of the 5 holes/pins are actually wired.  The 3 in the middle holes have pins to assist lining the battery up when you install it on the cradle.  Not sure which side has the pins/holes (battery or cradle side).

Quote from: Rod L. on January 03, 2024, 07:47:42 AM
Looks like my controller on my Rad Runner Plus has gone out.  If I upgrade to the 35A version, do I have to also replace the display or with the stock display still work?

LCDs usually come with a new controller upgrades.  Easy to swap out.  And it will also be color.  Also the newer screen is easier to read.

Contract Area 13 to see if an upgraded controller will work with your older LCD. 

Thanks for the suggestion though there is nothing wrong with the lights, both front and rear turn off at the same time also they're both reasonably new.  It's a system issue - but what?
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Are the lights new to the bike or came with your newer bike?  Some aftermarket lights have been known to have problems on RADS. 

They make a toothbrush looking brush for cleaning the gears out.  I think I bought mine at walmart in the cleaning section.  If it is really bad I spray some degreaser in there and scrub it out.  Just be careful not to spray degreaser on aluminum parts.  If you do spray it with water.  Let it dry and then you can lube it with chain oil or WD40.  Eventually the WD40 will gunk it up again but it is much less expensive than chain oil. 

I am assuming the rest of the bike works fine.  if so it sounds like some diodes in the LED light has gone bad.  time for a new light. 

Here is an option so that you don't have to put new brake levers on your bike and still upgrade to hydraulic. 

https://amzn.to/3u369nd