Quote from: Traildad on January 30, 2024, 12:25:19 AM
There is a trail near me that is around 1.5 miles gaining 750 feet in elevation. I?d like to try it now that I have the area 13 controller upgrade. The guy at the bike shop that installed it warned me about putting too much strain on the motor. How well does the RR6+ handle hill climbs. I like the view from the top but I dont want to burn up my motor. Anyone have experience doing hills?

I think that is a doable hill on my bike. I have a Rover 5 with the upgraded controller and upgraded motor and would climb that hill just fine.  I have had an issue prior with too much current running too long through the wiring and I had to replace that wiring.  But no problems for my motor or controller. 

Welcome back to the road.  Accidents do happen. 

Quote from: spyder918 on January 26, 2024, 03:15:20 PM

Quote from: petermcg on November 20, 2023, 09:28:00 AM
Reporting back:  The https://electrobikeworld.com/products/rad-power-6-upgrade-kit works well on the Rad Runner 3+, and now I can use either the stock 48v battery or my 52v battery.

I noticed they have 2 different kits, is there a difference other than the price? Looks like the controller size is a bit different as well.  Are the specs different?  Or 1 just fits the RR3+ better than the other one?

https://electrobikeworld.com/products/35a-controller-kt-lcd8h-color-display-rad-combo

vs

https://electrobikeworld.com/products/rad-power-6-upgrade-kit

One says a RAD 6 upgrade the other does not.  Probably the 6 upgrade is the one as I think your bike has the same setup.  The other one is probably prior to RAD change over. 

Look at Area 13 website and see the differences.  They say which models will work with their controllers. 

The PAS sensor is just a magnet so I don't think you will have problems with that.

If you don't want to install the connectors, I think RAD sells the battery cradle for $25US.   
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Hi! Thanks. I researched the connectors and it wasn't that much more expensive to buy the cradle from Rad (36eur). Hopefully that or the wiring harness will do the trick.
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How long will shipping take?  Hopefully this is more than enough parts to get you back up and racing.

Quote from: RadMagnus on January 26, 2024, 01:50:51 AM
Hi again - so I'm ordering wiring harness and batteryconnector from Rad. It is going to cost me 36+36 euro plus shipping. Anything I should add to the order while I'm at it? The Radmission is 3 years old. Already got new battery, two displays. The PAS sensor is very exposed to moisture etc - is that something I should order or is it easy to get from 3rd party? Thanks!

The PAS sensor is just a magnet so I don't think you will have problems with that.

If you don't want to install the connectors, I think RAD sells the battery cradle for $25US.   

possibly your motor gears have crumbled inside the housing. 

do you hear any noise from the motor?
any wattage reading on the LCD?

Here are search words

Hailong Battery Male and Female Connector Plugs

I got the ones with soldiered wiring attached

The battery connector can't be that expensive. Anyone that knows where to get one fast online?
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It isn't expensive.  But you probably should buy both ends battery and cradle to be safe.
Amazon and ebay both have them in stock.

Here are your key words to search for it.

Hailong Battery Male and Female Connector Plugs

That is a GOOD question. 

I would expect it is the display. 

Maybe you can ask the question on the part number of the controller vs your part number. 

It would be software that controls it and that would still go through the display. 

Why not just buy the upgraded controller and display.  It is about $200 US for both.  Then you have a color display which is easier to read and navigate through.

Once you crack open the cradle, you may see melted insulation around the wiring.  That's what I had.  The wiring in the battery is better insulated.  The only reason I replaced the battery side was because the  plastic melted and expanded and wouldn't fit into the cradle. 

The 3 center pins are dummies. I think they are only used for aligning the battery into the cradle.

 

It looks alike aluminum.  Find you a a welder who works on aluminum and have him weld a bead or 2 where it usually needs to stop.  This may be your only option if manufacturer doesn't come through.

Looks like the Rovers are in line with Pre-Pandemic pricing but some adjustment for inflation.

Their City Bike must be their bread and butter holding the price higher.

The trike must be a bust.  Maybe another Mission in the making to disappear.

Have you disconnected the headlight and tail light and seeing it will run disconnected? 

Have you installed an aftermarket headlight?  These have caused an overload of the controller. 

My problem was the battery cradle connection melted wiring.  I had to replace the connectors.  You might have to do that or replace the cradle.

I have seen them on facebook market place and ebay.

Haven't had the exact problem, but similar.  Do you use the throttle for long runs?  If so the battery cradle wiring may have over heated and melted.  For me I noticed it first when I had a hard time taking battery out to charge.  I had to replace the battery connectors on both the battery and cradle to make the repair.  Once I changed it no more issues.

Only way to know if you had melting is to smell it for electrical odor and/or open the cradle and look for melted wires.

Only 2 of the 5 holes/pins are actually wired.  The 3 in the middle holes have pins to assist lining the battery up when you install it on the cradle.  Not sure which side has the pins/holes (battery or cradle side).