You don't have to have RAD batteries because RAD didn't make the batteries.  They very similar to the Shark batteries if not a Shark battery.  The main thing you need to take into consideration is who makes the battery cells.  Stay with high quality cells like LG, Panasonic, and Samsung.  And if you are using batteries as you posted they do need to be the same 48v. 

Take a look at the following video if you want more power and speed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=By9bQH4eMdA

maybe the cable is binding in the tubing and needs lubrication. I would disconnect the wiring and see if it freely moves.  if not lube it.  if lube doesn't help you have a kink in it some place. It should move freely and easily.

Wow my stock one on my Rover 5 is very easy and simple to shift.  You may have one that is defective or maybe the wire is too short or binding on something.  I have never had to adjust mine so I couldn't tell you want to do.

On my Rover 5 the screen is waterproof
the controller isn't but haven't noticed an issue other than a rusty screw on the controller housing.

I have put over 5000 miles on the controller without issues. 

Too cold and too hot can reduce battery performance

it all depends on the number charging cycles and how much throttle you use. 

I got 7000 out of a battery before I started having problems.  I burned the wiring because of too much current flowing.  After repaired it was almost as good as new.  But range for me is much lower because of have several hills I tackle. 

They released the 6 and then the 6+ over a year ago.  From what I have read, the newer models are subpar to the Rover 5.  Range is the same.  Slightly less power.

Check Citzencycle on youtube.  He put in a dual motor that added range for him. 

Also the advantage of the 5 over the 6+ is easier to upgrade and move batteries.  I personally don't like batteries built in to the frame because you are limited on battery upgrades and placement.  But you can still had a second battery to the 6 and 6+. 

the newer screen is a plus that you will like better. has more settings and easier to read.
I'm sure you can find a good place to mount a new controller. Zip ties are stronger than you might think and they look okay if they are the same color.

Try Area13 out of California.  They have had the controllers in the past.  They will respond to email if you need to, but it might take a day or 2 for them to get back. 

Had problem with Rover 5 and turned out to be fired wiring on the battery cradle. Melted wiring because of too much prolonged current running through the wiring.

Quote from: Traildad on January 30, 2024, 12:25:19 AM
There is a trail near me that is around 1.5 miles gaining 750 feet in elevation. I?d like to try it now that I have the area 13 controller upgrade. The guy at the bike shop that installed it warned me about putting too much strain on the motor. How well does the RR6+ handle hill climbs. I like the view from the top but I dont want to burn up my motor. Anyone have experience doing hills?

I think that is a doable hill on my bike. I have a Rover 5 with the upgraded controller and upgraded motor and would climb that hill just fine.  I have had an issue prior with too much current running too long through the wiring and I had to replace that wiring.  But no problems for my motor or controller. 

Welcome back to the road.  Accidents do happen. 

Quote from: spyder918 on January 26, 2024, 03:15:20 PM

Quote from: petermcg on November 20, 2023, 09:28:00 AM
Reporting back:  The https://electrobikeworld.com/products/rad-power-6-upgrade-kit works well on the Rad Runner 3+, and now I can use either the stock 48v battery or my 52v battery.

I noticed they have 2 different kits, is there a difference other than the price? Looks like the controller size is a bit different as well.  Are the specs different?  Or 1 just fits the RR3+ better than the other one?

https://electrobikeworld.com/products/35a-controller-kt-lcd8h-color-display-rad-combo

vs

https://electrobikeworld.com/products/rad-power-6-upgrade-kit

One says a RAD 6 upgrade the other does not.  Probably the 6 upgrade is the one as I think your bike has the same setup.  The other one is probably prior to RAD change over. 

Look at Area 13 website and see the differences.  They say which models will work with their controllers. 

The PAS sensor is just a magnet so I don't think you will have problems with that.

If you don't want to install the connectors, I think RAD sells the battery cradle for $25US.   
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Hi! Thanks. I researched the connectors and it wasn't that much more expensive to buy the cradle from Rad (36eur). Hopefully that or the wiring harness will do the trick.
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How long will shipping take?  Hopefully this is more than enough parts to get you back up and racing.

Quote from: RadMagnus on January 26, 2024, 01:50:51 AM
Hi again - so I'm ordering wiring harness and batteryconnector from Rad. It is going to cost me 36+36 euro plus shipping. Anything I should add to the order while I'm at it? The Radmission is 3 years old. Already got new battery, two displays. The PAS sensor is very exposed to moisture etc - is that something I should order or is it easy to get from 3rd party? Thanks!

The PAS sensor is just a magnet so I don't think you will have problems with that.

If you don't want to install the connectors, I think RAD sells the battery cradle for $25US.