News:

Welcome Rad Power Bike owners!

Buying a Rad Power Bike? Support the forum and use my affiliate link: https://bit.ly/2VMSVHl

Be sure to sign up for a free account to see posted images.

Note: To help support to ongoing costs of running
the site we use Amazon affiliate links.

Main Menu

RadCity 5 Speedometer goes to 0 when coasting

Started by Slowrider, February 18, 2022, 08:20:31 AM

Previous topic - Next topic Rad E-Bike April 2024 Promotion

Slowrider

I love my RadCity 5 but it has this minor problem where while I'm pedaling or giving it throttle the speedometer works but when I stop pedaling or using throttle the speedometer will go down to 0. It's like there has to be power going to the motor for the speedometer to work

I messaged Rad about it and they replied quickly saying it likely was either a loose connection or the speed sensor in the motor was bad.  They said check the connections and if it's still bad let them know and they will send me a new motor.  Well the next day I went for a ride and it acted normal again with the speedometer working so I thought it fixed itself.

Me being busy working and cold weather (Yeah I know lame excuses LOL) meant I didn't ride it for a month or so.  I get back to riding and it's doing the same thing.  I unplug and replug the connectors and they seem tight but it's still doing it so I replied to the same email that the problem is back and I checked the connectors.  A different guy replies and says it's the display.  I replied that just to be clear it's showing a speed but just a 0 instead of the speed I was going but he understood that.  It seemed weird to me because I would think a bad display wouldn't display anything but they know more than me about their bikes.  He said they're sending out a new display for me.

Well fast forward about a week and there's a package on my door from Rad!  I was excited and opened it up getting ready to replace the display but it looks different than the current one on my bike.  It has a toggle switch and a screw in connector but none of my connectors look like that.  I attached a photo.

So I'm guessing they sent me a display for a different model Rad or perhaps the RadCity 5 comes with different displays depending on when it was made? I'm sure they'll exchange it though.

Do y'all think a new display is going to fix it or was the first guy right?  Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated!

ChrisB

Hello Slowrider,
I cannot say what will fix the problem with your bike. I can say that they sent you a display for the previous gen RadCity (I am assuming you have a new RadCity 5 Plus with the dual display). It will be incompatible with the controller on the new RadCity 5 Plus model. Reach out to Rad to send you the proper one (if they are available yet). 

Slowrider

Quote from: ChrisB on February 18, 2022, 10:01:53 AM
Hello Slowrider,
I cannot say what will fix the problem with your bike. I can say that they sent you a display for the previous gen RadCity (I am assuming you have a new RadCity 5 Plus with the dual display). It will be incompatible with the controller on the new RadCity 5 Plus model. Reach out to Rad to send you the proper one (if they are available yet).

Thanks.  I just got a reply from them and they said it was for the previous year model.  They ordered the new display so hopefully it will ship soon. 

Slowrider

So just to update this I finally got the new display and remote installed but it's still doing the same thing.  I'm kind of thinking the first guy was right about the motor sensor being bad but IDK...  It's such a minor problem but it's also irritating 🤣

Slowrider

Okay latest update.  I replied to the email letting them know I still had the issue and about 10 days later they replied back asking if I could take a video showing the issue.

I replied saying I already took a video but would take another if he needed me to.  I figured they needed some recent proof of the problem for warranty. 

A different person replied back saying to check the connections for damage.  At this point I'm thinking I bet they don't have a record of the problem or the guy didn't look it up because I already did that as the first step a while back but what the heck I'll do it again.  I was planning on doing it today but before I could reply they send me another email saying they are sending a new controller.  I feel like they're playing a game of guess what part is next.  The first person said the motor (didn't replace (yet?)) but by the time the second person got the request it was the display and now the controller. 

If it's the controller I'll be happy but IDK if it is.  Do you guys think the controller could cause this?  This looks like it's going to be a pain to replace so I really don't want to do it if it's not the problem 😢

Radio Runner

 I had to send multiple emails to different people about a known recall item (The RRunner chain idler) to get the newly designed one. One suggestion was to adjust the cable tension ?! LOL There is no cable on a chain idler. The RR doesn't have a derailleur that's the RRplus. Did they actually read my email? Did they look up my serial number that THEY asked for?

Then outta nowhere i got a shipping confirmation for the new idler.

FL-GK

Quote from: Slowrider on March 31, 2022, 12:31:43 AM
Okay latest update.  I replied to the email letting them know I still had the issue and about 10 days later they replied back asking if I could take a video showing the issue.

I replied saying I already took a video but would take another if he needed me to.  I figured they needed some recent proof of the problem for warranty. 

A different person replied back saying to check the connections for damage.  At this point I'm thinking I bet they don't have a record of the problem or the guy didn't look it up because I already did that as the first step a while back but what the heck I'll do it again.  I was planning on doing it today but before I could reply they send me another email saying they are sending a new controller.  I feel like they're playing a game of guess what part is next.  The first person said the motor (didn't replace (yet?)) but by the time the second person got the request it was the display and now the controller. 

If it's the controller I'll be happy but IDK if it is.  Do you guys think the controller could cause this?  This looks like it's going to be a pain to replace so I really don't want to do it if it's not the problem 😢

I had to replace mine because i was getting an "Error 30" so I can't speak for your fix but it's actually not that hard to replace. Make sure you have the right tools (I have some nice stubby hex keys) makes it easy to remove the parts under the battery. The other thing i was concerned about was lining it back up for the screw holes but just push it up against the one side with one screw in and it will "find" the hole (when you do this what I'm saying will make sense if it does not now).

Slowrider

Quote from: FL-GK on April 01, 2022, 04:20:38 AM
Quote from: Slowrider on March 31, 2022, 12:31:43 AM
Okay latest update.  I replied to the email letting them know I still had the issue and about 10 days later they replied back asking if I could take a video showing the issue.

I replied saying I already took a video but would take another if he needed me to.  I figured they needed some recent proof of the problem for warranty. 

A different person replied back saying to check the connections for damage.  At this point I'm thinking I bet they don't have a record of the problem or the guy didn't look it up because I already did that as the first step a while back but what the heck I'll do it again.  I was planning on doing it today but before I could reply they send me another email saying they are sending a new controller.  I feel like they're playing a game of guess what part is next.  The first person said the motor (didn't replace (yet?)) but by the time the second person got the request it was the display and now the controller. 

If it's the controller I'll be happy but IDK if it is.  Do you guys think the controller could cause this?  This looks like it's going to be a pain to replace so I really don't want to do it if it's not the problem 😢

I had to replace mine because i was getting an "Error 30" so I can't speak for your fix but it's actually not that hard to replace. Make sure you have the right tools (I have some nice stubby hex keys) makes it easy to remove the parts under the battery. The other thing i was concerned about was lining it back up for the screw holes but just push it up against the one side with one screw in and it will "find" the hole (when you do this what I'm saying will make sense if it does not now).

I need to buy a good set of hex keys.  Hopefully it fixes the problem 🤣

Slowrider

Quote from: FL-GK on April 01, 2022, 04:20:38 AM
Quote from: Slowrider on March 31, 2022, 12:31:43 AM
Okay latest update.  I replied to the email letting them know I still had the issue and about 10 days later they replied back asking if I could take a video showing the issue.

I replied saying I already took a video but would take another if he needed me to.  I figured they needed some recent proof of the problem for warranty. 

A different person replied back saying to check the connections for damage.  At this point I'm thinking I bet they don't have a record of the problem or the guy didn't look it up because I already did that as the first step a while back but what the heck I'll do it again.  I was planning on doing it today but before I could reply they send me another email saying they are sending a new controller.  I feel like they're playing a game of guess what part is next.  The first person said the motor (didn't replace (yet?)) but by the time the second person got the request it was the display and now the controller. 

If it's the controller I'll be happy but IDK if it is.  Do you guys think the controller could cause this?  This looks like it's going to be a pain to replace so I really don't want to do it if it's not the problem 😢

I had to replace mine because i was getting an "Error 30" so I can't speak for your fix but it's actually not that hard to replace. Make sure you have the right tools (I have some nice stubby hex keys) makes it easy to remove the parts under the battery. The other thing i was concerned about was lining it back up for the screw holes but just push it up against the one side with one screw in and it will "find" the hole (when you do this what I'm saying will make sense if it does not now).

I just replaced the controller.  The screws holding on the controller and external cable cover were hex but everything else was Torx.  It wasn't too hard to align it but I was worried at first because the instructions mentions some type of "controller carrier" that looked like a metal piece to keep it aligned but I didn't get one of those.

When I first tried to power it on nothing happened... I'm thinking did Rad send me a defective controller...  I took off the cable cover under the battery to check if I forgot to plug in that and it seemed okay.  I put the battery back and hit power.  Now it's on but no headlight.  I'm frustrated but thinking I messed with something that made this change so I cut the cable ties and started unplugging and plugging back in connectors.  Put it back together and it's on and I have a headlight! I'm thinking when I ran the cables under the frame somehow one got pulled on.

So I leaned the bike and tested with the throttle and the speedometer didn't go to 0 when I let off the throttle and the wheel kept spinning.  I don't have time for a ride now but going to test it tonight.  I suspect it will work perfectly!