Semi-integrated battery fuse replacement

[DickB]

I have a soldering set up and pretty good hang of it, so I think I could replace the soldered fuses. But I'm unsure where to source this particular style of fuse on the new batteries. Anyone with electrical/engineering background have any idea how to hunt these down?

Only asking because I have a 6+ en route to me from rad now and all this battery talk has me thinking I should have a plan if/when it happens to me. I'm assuming I'll be receiving the newer battery configuration with the soldered fuses. Maybe I'll luck out and get the older style though.

EDIT: Looks like I found it. It's a surface mount fuse (SMD). I'll need to get it in hand to see how easy it is to solder. https://www.tti.com/content/ttiinc/en/apps/part-detail.html?partsNumber=0451010.MRL&mfgShortname=LTF&customerPartNumber=&minQty=1000&customerId=

Another source:
https://amzn.to/3FY0T7Q

Another option might be to just leave the old fuse in place, bend the leads on an axial lead fuse, and solder in parallel.
https://amzn.to/3tayP9C

[rory]

That?s a great idea. I guess it all depends on how easy it is to remove the solder on the surface mount/pads.

[crorris]

I wonder if you could solder something like this on instead and route it externally in case it blows again?


https://amzn.to/3t6zxEP

[Si1Dia]

I wonder if you could solder something like this on instead and route it externally in case it blows again?


https://amzn.to/3t6zxEP

do you mean like this?

[crorris]

Nice!

[rory]

Oh snap that looks great. Are you just soldering the wire ends to the fuse pad on the board and then running this out through the plastic battery case? I'd love to see the inside and how you ran the line out. My only concern would be keeping those 12AWG wires attached to the board, how would one go about securing them so they don't become detached with any moving around and jostling.

I wonder if you could solder something like this on instead and route it externally in case it blows again?


https://amzn.to/3t6zxEP

do you mean like this?

[rory]

Also, can anyone who has the initial battery fuse design, and the new soldered battery design tell us if there is any other differentiating trait? Maybe in the serial numbers. I'd love to know if my battery is the initial design or later soldered design without having to take it apart to see it's black or blue shrink wrapping.

[Si1Dia]

Oh snap that looks great. Are you just soldering the wire ends to the fuse pad on the board and then running this out through the plastic battery case? I'd love to see the inside and how you ran the line out. My only concern would be keeping those 12AWG wires attached to the board, how would one go about securing them so they don't become detached with any moving around and jostling.

I wonder if you could solder something like this on instead and route it externally in case it blows again?


https://amzn.to/3t6zxEP

do you mean like this?

I took the old fuse apart and soldered the wires to the posts then inserted them into the old fuse holder. this way I could easily reverse my decision later if I wanted to. I then secured the wires with hot glue to the end of the battery before running it out the hole I cut into the end cap. the only problem with this was it would no longer fit into the battery tray on my HS version of the rover 6+. it worked fine on my wife's ST version though since it has a lot more clearance to go in.

[rory]

Just received a pack of 10A surface mount fuses to test with. If anyone has a dead battery that has the soldered fuses (battery serial numbers will start with CAP) let me know. I?d be willing to try a repair at no cost (just cover the shipping to WI, USA)

[rjp]

Rory, where do you live? I live in Horicon WI.. I Know 3 people who have RR6+, they might need you some day. 

[rory]

I?m in Mequon, just north of Milwaukee. Looks like Horicon is pretty close. At least close enough that it?s more practical than spending $600+ on a new battery. I?m excited to tinker with them when I get the chance.

Rory, where do you live? I live in Horicon WI.. I Know 3 people who have RR6+, they might need you some day.

[babymilo0329]

Me too. Used the key to short out the charging port. Will work on fix this week. And many thanks DickB your the man. Also Batteries Plus Bulbs should be a good source to do this type of repair. Kramer

Talked to RAD and said I shorted it out with a key and CR said not under warranty now. She said RAD would replace and reduce my cost by $100 US (700 for new). I asked if anyway to repair. She said NO. Have to think RAD would not repair. Purchased RAD CITY Plus June 2022.

Today got fuses at NAPA $5 and NOW MY BATTERY IS CHARGING. May thanks for contributors here.

[DickB]

Me too. Used the key to short out the charging port. Will work on fix this week. And many thanks DickB your the man. Also Batteries Plus Bulbs should be a good source to do this type of repair. Kramer

You're welcome.

My local Batteries Plus Bulbs does not work on Li-Ion batteries. They would not touch a Rad battery. 

[boneshakin]

Which end cap do you open...the side where the LED level bars are located or the opposite side?

The new Rad semi-integrated battery has internal fuses that are a bit difficult but not impossible to replace.

I got a battery from a Facebook group member that refused to charge after a couple of months. She sent it to me to examine. (She got a warranty replacement from Rad.)

The new battery has an aluminum tube-like case, and is opened from the ends. To open it, you must first pry off a cover at either end of the battery to expose T10 Torx screws. Remove 4 screws at each end.

The battery is well sealed against moisture. The end caps have rubber gaskets, and all exposed connections are sealed in silicone rubber. The battery assembly itself is fastened to the case at either end with silicone rubber. This must be cut at both ends to remove the battery assembly. To remove the assembly, I pushed from the power connector end, rotating the end cap to fit through the case.

The entire assembly is sealed in shrink wrap and more silicone. The fuses are at either end. Not knowing the internal construction, I made a bit of a mess opening the shrink wrap. Now knowing where the fuses are located, small flaps could be carefully cut in the shrink wrap to expose the fuses and then reseal the shrink wrap. Another Facebook member used my information and photos to replace a charge fuse by just opening the end caps, cutting the silicone, and pushing the charge fuse end out of the case a few inches. He then cut a small flap in the shrink wrap to expose the fuse. It is not necessary to completely disassemble as I did.

The charge fuse is 10A, possibly because the new charger is higher amperage? I'm charging with my standard 2A charger to confirm the fix. The battery arrived depleted, with 1 of 10 LEDs lit. At present I have 3 LEDs lit. The battery is presenting about 46V at the power port, consistent with 3 LEDs. I cannot test it on my Rover 5, but I have no reason to believe that it will not work; in fact it was working fine, just not charging.

I'm sure many other than me question the decision to require such disassembly to replace a fuse. Including Rad. This inexpensive fuse cost them a replacement battery.

[DickB]

Which end cap do you open...the side where the LED level bars are located or the opposite side?

https://www.radowners.com/index.php/topic,1655.msg9372.html#msg9372