Quote from: Bottomsup on June 12, 2022, 11:45:59 AM
ok progress!! I unplugged things in a different order and narrowed it down to the PAS sensor. when that one is unplugged the display looks normal and the throttle works. I also put the stock display and controller back and it also works without the PAS sensor plugged in but throws error code 30 when it's plugged in. I think it's that sensor. I followed the instructions on the RAD site to clean the magnetic disk, push the sensor closer, etc.. but none if worked. When I turn the peddles the red light stays off. I guess I need a new PAS sensor? so odd this would happen while tucking the wires, etc.. away.

I think it's just coincidental, I don't think you "did" anything to break it. Is it possible you did something connecting? Sure, but I don't think so. If there is a really long wait time for PAS you might be able to find one on the internet. I got a throttle overnight that was weeks away from RAD (only like $13.00).

Quote from: Radicali on June 12, 2022, 09:10:25 AM
I've detailed my issues in the forum here.  But Rad did resolve all y concerns,  They did it happily and quickly once the issue were defined properly.  The frustration for me came in tracking the real problem and cause.  At each step Rd did offer solutions and shipped parts. And once they realized I still had a problem they replaced the entire bike, the installer built it asap, and there was no extra cost to me.  There was just time spent and patience needed.  The replacement bike is amazing in so many ways that I do not regret my journey in anyway. 

The most awesome thing is that the bike teaches me every time I take it out.  I enjoy learning what I can do with it and how to operate it differently than a traditional bike.  It's a lot of fun.

I'd say have no fear.   But let's keep the collective pressure on Rad to improve. It's worth it.

Well said, I've had issues as well. RAD has been there to correct them but their correction processes do need improvement. For example, a parts supply on the east coast would not be too much to ask (their idea of expedited is NOT the same as mine) nor would be keeping enough parts on hand to take care of problems (yes, build and sell a few less bikes if you have to). Also at some point you simply can't keep blaming someone else (supply chain here, labor problem there etc. etc.). If your in business solve your problems (I am in mfg. for a fairly large mfg, so I know it can be done) everyone has them, get it done. Yeah, for a few weeks folks were caught off guard but at some point the problems DO become your own. Yes, great bikes, they need to be pushed. I don't regret my decision, that being said I'm not sure I would rush to replace with exactly the same (RadCity Plus 5) if I had to do so today. I would give more then one mfg. a good hard look.

Quote from: NeilCutcliffe on May 29, 2022, 04:47:06 PM
New Rad City 5 high step, got code 30 out of the box. Rad sent a new wiring harness and motor controller. Wiring Harness arrived first. I replaced it but still got code 30. New motor controller arrived yesterday and I installed it today.

Now code 30 is gone. But I only get power for about 1 or 2 seconds and the power to the motor cuts out. The display and side panel are still on, no errors reported. The headlight and taillight are still on. But no power to the motor in response to either hand throttle or PAS mode.

I had the same rough time as pjiaria finding the screw holes in the controller during mounting.

Very discouraged. I'll contact RAD CS tomorrow, see what they propose next.

To mount the controller screw one of the mounting screws partially in, slide the controller up keeping the back pressed against the side, once you hit the screw let it down and push the controller up, now tighten the screw so it's hitting the controller and slid up some more and it will hit the hole. Once you partially screw in the first the second goes right in just don't fully tighten one, tighten them both at once.

I too have experienced controller problems. Bought bike in Feb. worked one short ride got error 30, called and got a new controller - 2 weeks from ship to delivery BUT it was for a step through and I needed it for my high step. So they sent out another one (2 + more weeks) this one was for a Rover 6 (which is not compatible with the motor). So out goes another and I get it, it's branded on the bag as 5 high step BUT it's ANOTHER Rover 6 (2 + more weeks go by). The only saving thing is I was able to temporarily use the controller from the step through so I've been able to ride. I don't know what I would have done because when you add up the time... wow! So anyway I received a controller this week and it looks right on a quick glance but I WILL be checking carefully as putting these in IS a pain BUT unfortunately I've gotten really good at it. The 6 controller looks exactly like the 5 high step (different model numbers etc. of course) and since it said 5 on the bag I did NOT check it any farther (a mistake).

I will say that overall Rad support has been great BUT in my experience they will NOT expedite any replacement parts (although they tell you they did) nor do they have a shipment point on the east coast so I think those are major problems they will have to overcome.

Quote from: Altema on May 31, 2022, 01:30:03 PM

Quote from: FL-GK on May 31, 2022, 09:11:17 AM

Quote from: Altema on May 31, 2022, 06:50:37 AM

Quote from: cerebrix on May 26, 2022, 12:58:20 AM
New to ebikes but not new to things electrical, or mechanical.

Is fuses inside the battery normal in ebike batteries?  I just feel like, looking at some of those how to youtube videos on this topic.  I wonder if it's something as simple as just if the battery gets too hot, it pops the fuse thats in there.

thoughts?

Fuses inside the battery case are normal. Earlier Rad bikes had the battery fuses accessible via a removable rubber plug, updated models have no user access. Easiest way to tell is with a voltmeter on the output connections.

If the batteries "work" in other words power up the motor but won't take charge that tells me a voltmeter on the output connections would read whatever voltage is available (makes logical sense) what I don't understand is how that tells you if the charging side is not active due to the fuse being blown?

The method tells if a fuse is blown, and if both fuses are good then you'll have the same voltage at the output and the charge port. Voltage at the output terminal but not at the charge port means the 5amp fuse is blown, and the battery will not charge.

PS: Be careful when checking the charge port voltage, as the space is tight and it's easy to short the contacts with the probe.

So, there is TWO fuses, the video I watched only showed one, on what I would say is the left top side of the battery (once you have the actual insides exposed). Are they both in that same location? Thanks for expanding your explanation too that helped for sure. I don't have this problem (yet) but it seems to me to be one of the main things to educate yourself on as it's almost inevitable to happen.

Quote from: Altema on May 31, 2022, 06:50:37 AM

Quote from: cerebrix on May 26, 2022, 12:58:20 AM
New to ebikes but not new to things electrical, or mechanical.

Is fuses inside the battery normal in ebike batteries?  I just feel like, looking at some of those how to youtube videos on this topic.  I wonder if it's something as simple as just if the battery gets too hot, it pops the fuse thats in there.

thoughts?

Fuses inside the battery case are normal. Earlier Rad bikes had the battery fuses accessible via a removable rubber plug, updated models have no user access. Easiest way to tell is with a voltmeter on the output connections.

If the batteries "work" in other words power up the motor but won't take charge that tells me a voltmeter on the output connections would read whatever voltage is available (makes logical sense) what I don't understand is how that tells you if the charging side is not active due to the fuse being blown?

Quote from: chopday on May 03, 2022, 10:30:46 AM

Quote from: Kari on May 01, 2022, 02:24:59 AM
I have Topeak Aero Wedge Pack on my RadMini 4.

Thanks Kari for sharing the picture..I did not try the large size may be the straps on the large size are longer and will fit on a cloud-9 seat and the seat post as you have shown. My main problem when I tried was that I was not able to wrap the strap around the bag and thru the seat to get a secure fit - the straps were short.

I always keep extra hook and loop straps from various bags etc. and I've got tons of it (so does everyone on this forum) I would think if it's as you describe using some scraps to lengthen the strap should do it. If you do not have any extra (yet) all the home improvement shops sell it.

Quote from: Packrat1 on November 20, 2021, 04:28:49 PM
Thanks

I'm pretty sure I mentioned somewhere I was running 50 and that was performing pretty well, I have come to find I prefer a much softer ride so I doubt I would run 50 if I put my old tires on, probably 35-40. I don't care about range on like 99% of my rides, I get about 4-5 one plus hour rides per charge on soft tires (35lbs). Lastly and I may post this down below to the other poster so they see it I have found the stock tires heavy and very much out of balance so I would consider replacement as soon as they show first signs of wear, or if cost is not the issue I would just replace now.

Quote from: david.platt@mac.com on May 08, 2022, 10:06:15 PM

Quote from: DrSmile on May 07, 2022, 08:14:37 PM
I can tell you that the stock tires are garbage, they aren't round. The rims are pretty crappy too but they should be sturdy enough to last a while. There is nothing specific about these wheel or tires (except for the motor mounted on the rear rim), they are standard 27.5 inch, which is half way between a 26 inch MTB tire and a 29 inch tire. Although it's probably the least common "standard" tire size they aren't hard to find. Just look for a 2 inch wide 27.5 inch (also called ISO 584) size.

https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/schwalbe-marathon-e-plus-performance-smart-dualguard-27.5--mtb-tyre/138048579/p

How about these tires what do you think.

Here is what I did. These tires are performing excellently. They are a 27.5 X 2.3 wide ISO (60-584) (for any tire tube questions just match ISO). They have made it a different and better bike. I did have to modify the fender attachment by widen the attachment bar, cutting it in the middle and using plastic tube attached to the fender and simply pressing the metal into that, so far works perfectly and is quite (I'll send a picture later, I don't have one with me). I have done both bike now too (one mine, one wife).

Quote from: FL-GK on April 19, 2022, 10:08:42 AM

Quote from: Samsquam on November 17, 2021, 03:54:53 PM
I've been running 50# and it seems good for dirt and pavement.

I've been running 50# as well and it's good for pavement but I did notice some slippage on a shell path, it's been good in the dirt and sand of sunny (and 83°) FLA.

Overall I would say I'm happy I went with the "city" vs "rover" tires. If money did not matter I would have both plus a fat tire trike, and might as well throw in one of the all wheel drive monsters!

I say the above because I think, to a degree, all of us are wondering if we made the right choice (fat tire vs regular) for our riding styles and areas we mostly have and get to ride in. Oh well, see above and buy another bike!

Here is what I did. These are performing excellently, have made it a different and better bike.

Must be something different in the firmware because the RR 6 controller acts the same. 

There were a lot of opinions and comments that I certainly agreed with. I love tools and when watching all the "how to" videos while saving up for and waiting for delivery I purchased a few tools and this was one I just felt like I needed. I work in mfg. and in assembly making 3 phase tankless hot water heaters (not so much now, mostly sales and Ops now), I do welding, drilling wire making, crimping, solder dipping, we use large industrial metal breaks for our aluminum mounting plates, cut foam with hot wires tool etc. so I have A LOT of mechanical experience but not so much with this and I felt like I needed one to get the feel for NM. I still use it regularly as even though now I have a much better feel for how tight I need to make things.

Quote from: madbroulton on April 27, 2022, 01:12:56 PM
I bought a used 200miles on the odo (year old) RR+ and followed the *procedure to unlock from 32 kph to 40 kph, however the bike will still not go over 32. (20 mph). I bought a new RR+ last week and it goes 25mph no problem! Any ideas?

*holding the up and down arrows and going into the hidden menu.

The only thing that currently comes to mind is can you increase the wattage as well?

I only have two setting one for watts and one for speed.

I understand voltage but there is no setting for it ( I mention this due to a side discussion).

I have a spare RR 6+ controller and I have to replace my controller soon because I'm running a R City 5 + Step Thru controller because they (RAD support, was otherwise great) sent me two incorrect ones when my original failed.

Point is I should be able to temporarily hook up the RR 6+ and check it.

If/when I do I report back.

Quote from: Ddaybc on April 27, 2022, 07:33:39 AM

Quote from: cyrexo on April 23, 2022, 03:50:07 PM
Hi there!

I've got the radcity 5 Plus EU Version.

But the increased speed of the Bike (Just 32 km/h) doesnt feel enough for me.

Thank you and have a nice day

FL-GK the OP is asking to go faster as 32 km/h isn't enough for him. He's not asking to get up to speed quicker, just that it's not fast enough for him. Unfortunately even if one was able to set the top speed to 40 km/h the bike doesn't put out enough watts to get there. With the egg rider one is able to tap in to enough watts to do it as it unlocks some of the restrictions. I suggested he look into it as it may help him to overcome the restrictions of the EU bikes without turning to other products not as common in his country.

If one wishes to increase the overall speed beyond 40 km/h the voltage has to be increased as the motor rpm is tied to the voltage. The torque is not. Our Rad bikes can and do handle a lot of watts, 1000, 1200 etc but the top speed doesn't change. They just get there quicker.

I see what you're saying, I was coming at it more from the only two options you have to change on the stock controller (at least US version I have) are speed and wattage. You can go from 250 to 500 to 750W, so I suppose you could say the speed adjustment is voltage but it's not how it's listed when you go to change the programming. And we did both say the same thing in the end "it's the Watts that will get you there quicker". I agree the controller you mention sounds great, I'm going to check them out myself as I'm not familiar with them.

Quote from: Radio Runner on April 26, 2022, 05:55:07 PM
If your fortunate enough to pick them up at the Rad store front then I would suggest going there 1st and test riding a few before purchasing. Also test loading a few in the vehicle.

Great idea! That's exactly what I would do. If I didn't live in FLA I would meet them there! LOL

Quote from: Hanko374 on April 26, 2022, 12:44:12 PM
Went through every connection I could find following RAD trouble shooting and nothing, still have the same problem. The UI remote shows one blinking battery bar (battery is fully charged) than the UI display shows error 30 and shuts down. What I don't understand is that it worked for a short while. Neither the throttle nor the power assist work. It's dead!

That's exactly how my controller acted. I was pretty sure it would NOT be the connections but it's well worth checking while you're waiting (shhh... don't tell anyone but I told support I thoroughly checked connections long before I actually did  - and with a fine tooth comb I might add - so they would ship since I had to call from work while away from my bike).

Well, as I said, sorry for your troubles, I feel you're pain as I was pretty much in the same place, all you can do is wait.