1500 miles on the bike and starting on the 3rd set of brake pads (front and rear).

My normal ride is a 12 mile deal.  From home I ride to a local mountain bike trail (which is 7 mile trail in and out), and then back home.  That means 7 out of every 12 miles is on the trail (with lots of steep hills to climb and descend).

I often do this ride twice or three times a day (it is only 2.5 miles from my house).

Anyone else seeing this much brake pad wear riding mountain bike routes?

Probably normal, but curious about other experiences.

Yes, the lower threads are 6 x 1.0.  I had to use a tap on all four Minis due to the powdercoat in the threads.  I also used a tap to clean up the 5 x 0.8 on the upper mounts.  Powdercoat can actually deform the aluminum, and the threads could be damaged by initial installation of new bolts.

I have found it advisable to clean up the threads (using good quality die) on any original small bolts that you remove and reuse (such as bottle carrier bolts).  The bolt finish quality is not up to my standards, and I have replaced a few with Japan made metric hardware.

On the lower rack mount bolts, I put an "acorn" stainless steel 6mm nut on the end of the bolt (after the nut) to keep from snagging skin or rags/brushes when cleaning the bike.  Like grandma always said, "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."

And....it looks nicer.

Do not use a socket to remove because it puts some side load into the axle thread (when mounted to the ratchet handle).  Use a straight, box end 18mm wrench (you will find "ratcheting box end" wrenches available in 18 mm, which are straight/flat).

The straight box end ensures that all of the applied force is at a true right angle to the axle shaft.  Anything else could break the shaft.

I could not get mine loose with a socket (on both our bkes), but it came loose just fine with my ratcheting 18mm box end wrench.  Sometimes basic physics can get the best of us!

The total gear ratio is not a complete answer to "energy in - drive out".  Increasing the crank sprocket tooth count reduces torque fed into the chain (by your legs).  This is simply the age old rule of leverage.

The larger crank sprocket also generates more chain speed, which is increased friction for you to work against.  The little things add up, in a world of compromise.

For example:  Smaller rear sprockets have more cyclic variation of torque into the freewheel, as well as a little more friction drag bending the link angles tighter.  At the speeds we ride, this isn't a big deal....but it's one more example of something simple that is actually complicated.

Fun stuff, ain't it?

This one fits.  I tried a similar one and had to send it back.

https://amzn.to/3A3YG5a

Just a short note about the front wheel bearings.  I have found that the 6mm bearings used in old Honda motorcycle steering stems are very high quality and perfect fit in our front wheels.  You would probably find the same bearings in other Japan brand motorcycles.

I caught my bearing issues before the races or cones were damaged.  The problem sounds like loose spokes, when you first notice it.  Don't wait....fix it right away.

Easy fix.

If you have access to a small drill press, you can drill the round nut for safety wire.  That is a pretty common requirement for various forms of motorcycle racing.

The other option would be a metric nylock nut, in place of the right side nut.  That would probably require a small spacer that will fit properly in the right lower fork leg.