I figured someone would be interested in this... Well it's off to storage!

Has anyone seen this?  This is not the layoffs in April where they cut 14% of their staff and closed their mobile bike service...  This is new layoffs!  The beginning of the end for Rad?

https://www.geekwire.com/2022/rad-power-bikes-cuts-about-10-of-staff-citing-economic-uncertainty-and-rising-operating-costs/

I bought it from Electro Bike World.  It's the 48 - 60v 750w Bafang geared rear hub motor listed on their site for $262.99.  I bought it for my RadCity 5 but I wasn't paying attention and the City has a totally different motor and housing than the RadRover.  I didn't even cut the zip ties off the wire because it was obvious that it wouldn't fit.  I'll sell it for $200 cash if anyone near Killeen, TX wants to buy it.

No the motors are completely different.  I guess it's another thing they changed when they went to the semi integrated battery.  On my RadCity 5 the wire is coming out on the left side by the brake rotor.  It seems on the motor I bought the wire comes out on the opposite side of the brake rotor.  The plug is a similar size but it's different.  Also the axle where it bolts to the bike is longer.

Why would I be surprised that the e-bike world is any different than the regular bike world when it comes to standardization... There is none 🤣

I kind of figured this would happen so I was looking into buying an 15A sinewave controller and screen for my Lectric XP Lite because the pedal assist on the stock controller kind of sucks.  Of course after I ordered it on AliExpress the seller messages me saying they're out of that one and not getting more.  I'm batting 0 for 2 so maybe this is my hint to ride them as they are 🤣

Well the warranty on my RadCity 5 is going to run out in a few months so I figure it's time to prepare for upgrades.  The first part actually came in sooner than I expected.  I was expecting a two month wait.

It's the "true 750 watt" Befang motor.  I've seen quite a few videos showing this going on a RadRover 6 but I don't think I've seen one for the RadCity 5.  Of course I know I have to take it out of the casing but has anyone here upgraded the motor on their RadCity 5?  The hub looks a little different but I hope there are no issues with it fitting.

Will there be any difference in power or noise with everything else stock?

I couldn't figure out how to insert a photo so I attached it

I don't know the specs but I know I replaced it with one drawing 8 watts and it's fine.  I've seen someone comment that the controller on the newer Rad bikes is limited to 12.5 watts for the circuit that powers the headlight, taillight and LED backlight.  I don't know if that's correct.

Quote from: Tree on April 26, 2022, 03:54:37 PM
Any suggestions for books on ebike maintenance, particular for a Rad Rover 6 Plus?

I know there are good books on road and mtn bikes (such as the Zen series), but anything out there for our bikes?

I've seen books on how to build them and DIY stuff but nothing covering maintenance.  Many of the components are the same so I would think that would carry over from regular bikes.  It's when you get into the electrical and motor then IDK

Quote from: twieneke523 on May 16, 2022, 03:04:10 PM
Looking for replacement rims for the RAD CIty 5. Got hit bay a car and bent both rims. Any suggestions?

Your best bet is to contact Rad for a replacement.  The spokes on the rear wheel are 12 gauge so that might be an issue for some rims. 

If for some reason you can't get parts from Rad your best bet is probably a wheel builder. 

Quote from: FL-GK on May 13, 2022, 10:04:35 AM

Quote from: FL-GK on April 19, 2022, 10:08:42 AM

Quote from: Samsquam on November 17, 2021, 03:54:53 PM
I've been running 50# and it seems good for dirt and pavement.

I've been running 50# as well and it's good for pavement but I did notice some slippage on a shell path, it's been good in the dirt and sand of sunny (and 83°) FLA.

Overall I would say I'm happy I went with the "city" vs "rover" tires. If money did not matter I would have both plus a fat tire trike, and might as well throw in one of the all wheel drive monsters!

I say the above because I think, to a degree, all of us are wondering if we made the right choice (fat tire vs regular) for our riding styles and areas we mostly have and get to ride in. Oh well, see above and buy another bike!

Here is what I did. These are performing excellently, have made it a different and better bike.

If I had to go over gravel I would do this but mine never leaves the pavement so I wouldn't want the range hit.  I'm surprised Rad doesn't offer tire or other options but maybe they figure that would complicate inventory.

Quote from: madbroulton on May 02, 2022, 08:17:07 AM
Thanks!  I didnt know (or dont think) that I could change my wattage?  The hidden menu in my controller only has, 1. tire size, 2. Top Speed, 3.3 KMH/MPH.

Am I missing another secret menu?

Cheers

I don't think so.  It's 750 watts.  If you want more than that you have to upgrade the controller.  The speed limiter is totally separate.  I think once you remove the limit it will go to maybe 23-24 but that may depend on how much weight the bike is carrying.  Then you're limited by watts.  How you can tell if you still have the speed limiter is go downhill faster than 20 and try to give it power.  If it shows 0 or something close to that then it's being limited by speed.

Quote from: JesseGabriel on April 20, 2022, 01:55:30 PM
Hey there,
I'm 5'6" with a 29-30" inseam.
I'm considering buying a radcity high step, as there are no step throughs left and I do like the look of the high step. I know I meet the height requirement and JUST meet the min suggested inseam but Im just wondering how it will feel for someone my height. Will I need to have the seat on the lowest setting? And if so will the handlebars feel really high etc? Any advice from shorter riders around my height would be appreciated!

Perhaps consider getting another Rad model.  I have the RadCity 5 high step and being 70" with about a 32" inseam it can be a challenge.  I've fell down trying to get on it a few times.  Now I have it down pat but it's still not so easy.  I couldn't imagine being shorter trying this.  I think it's due to the weight of an e-bike vs a regular bike.  If you're not new to e-bikes and have no issues then perhaps ignore what I'm saying. 

Don't buy something that isn't suited for you because you want it NOW.  I mean if it's an emergency and you need this thing to get you to work then maybe but really consider other models.

Quote from: FL-GK on April 01, 2022, 04:20:38 AM

Quote from: Slowrider on March 31, 2022, 12:31:43 AM
Okay latest update.  I replied to the email letting them know I still had the issue and about 10 days later they replied back asking if I could take a video showing the issue.

I replied saying I already took a video but would take another if he needed me to.  I figured they needed some recent proof of the problem for warranty. 

A different person replied back saying to check the connections for damage.  At this point I'm thinking I bet they don't have a record of the problem or the guy didn't look it up because I already did that as the first step a while back but what the heck I'll do it again.  I was planning on doing it today but before I could reply they send me another email saying they are sending a new controller.  I feel like they're playing a game of guess what part is next.  The first person said the motor (didn't replace (yet?)) but by the time the second person got the request it was the display and now the controller. 

If it's the controller I'll be happy but IDK if it is.  Do you guys think the controller could cause this?  This looks like it's going to be a pain to replace so I really don't want to do it if it's not the problem 😢

I had to replace mine because i was getting an "Error 30" so I can't speak for your fix but it's actually not that hard to replace. Make sure you have the right tools (I have some nice stubby hex keys) makes it easy to remove the parts under the battery. The other thing i was concerned about was lining it back up for the screw holes but just push it up against the one side with one screw in and it will "find" the hole (when you do this what I'm saying will make sense if it does not now).

I just replaced the controller.  The screws holding on the controller and external cable cover were hex but everything else was Torx.  It wasn't too hard to align it but I was worried at first because the instructions mentions some type of "controller carrier" that looked like a metal piece to keep it aligned but I didn't get one of those.

When I first tried to power it on nothing happened... I'm thinking did Rad send me a defective controller...  I took off the cable cover under the battery to check if I forgot to plug in that and it seemed okay.  I put the battery back and hit power.  Now it's on but no headlight.  I'm frustrated but thinking I messed with something that made this change so I cut the cable ties and started unplugging and plugging back in connectors.  Put it back together and it's on and I have a headlight! I'm thinking when I ran the cables under the frame somehow one got pulled on.

So I leaned the bike and tested with the throttle and the speedometer didn't go to 0 when I let off the throttle and the wheel kept spinning.  I don't have time for a ride now but going to test it tonight.  I suspect it will work perfectly!

Quote from: Rover on March 31, 2022, 01:00:45 PM
Waiting for delivery of my new ride but will need a water bottle holder. Any suggestions on a good product and best location for it on this bike?

This is the best thing I've found.  Also made in the USA if that's important to you.

https://www.gzila.com/products/rad-power-bike-water-bottle-holder

Quote from: wlfarrell on April 12, 2022, 11:15:00 AM
In shop now, waiting for new caliper from Rad.  Original caliper had small leak in piston that engages the pads.  I never saw any fluid, but repair shop found it.  Rad has a replacement, downside is it may take 2 weeks or more to get it shipped.

I'm glad you figured out the problem.  Mine are a little soft but it's because they need to be bled.  No definitely nothing to do with the brakes not being powerful enough.  I have the same brakes on my mountain bike and they can send me over the handlebars... Trust me I know LOL.  Yes the Rad is about 45 pounds heavier than my MTB but that's insignificant because unless you're 100 pounds the rider is the vast majority of the weight being stopped.

Quote from: pjiaria on April 13, 2022, 11:59:44 AM
3rd RC5 died today. 106 miles, 3 charges, maybe 8-10 rides. 2 months. Code 30 while on kickstand (2nd bike, second time). In garage not ridden for about 6 days. Battery shows 6 bars. Remote display reads 1 bar, then the error 30 occurs. They are sending a controller and harness.

I cannot recommend this model. I only hope they offer us reliable controller for our 2 thousand dollars BEFORE warranty runs out (or their bankruptcy...)

I just finished replacing the controller on my RadCity 5.  It wasn't code 30 but for some reason it made the speedometer go down to 0 when coasting.  Otherwise it worked perfectly but that was just annoying enough for me to want to fix.  I suspect Rad is working hard to fix the controller issue because the new controller I got was revision M vs the old one was revision G. 

Take your time and even take some photos of the screws before taking them out.  Read the instructions online.  They're not as good as I'd like but they do help.  On the battery mount and key lock there are two different types of screws.  One is a short T9 Torx and the other a longer T8 Torx.  Double check your connectors as well.  Right after I replaced it the bike would intermittently not want to turn on and if it did the headlight didn't come on.  It was one of the connectors not secure enough.  I did the high step but there's even a video for the step over.