Bike died after a quick flash from the lights. Now dead. I have pictures here...

[RadMagnus]

Hi all! First post here. I have gotten a reply from Rad that I will have to replace the motor plug after the reviewed the picture sent here. Can that really be the case? I need my bike so bad so a week or two without it feels like months...

It is a 3 year old Radmission 1. I have used the eggrider for 1 of these 3 years and hence increased the speed from 25km/h (15mph) to 35km/h (22mph).

Any DIY tips and tricks appreciated Thanks!

Actions already taken:
I have checked both fuses and even changed them.

I have tried with my spare battery.

I have measured the voltage with a meter.

I have unplugged all wires and plugged them back together.

I have cleaned the battery connector. It was a lot of green (I suppose corrosion?).

I have tried with both the stock controller and an aftermarket (eggrider) controller.

Questions:
Do I need to change the battery connector since it has the corrosion (however, now gone)?
Should I try to order a wiring harness directly? Aftermarket ok?

Thanks again!

EDIT: Sorry, forgot to save the picture (new user here). Now it should be up.

[John Rose]

... I have tried with my spare battery. ...

Well, that rules out issues with the keyswitch.

"Pictures here"? What pictures? [edit - I see it now, thanks.]

[inoxa]

Have you disconnected the headlight and tail light and seeing it will run disconnected? 

Have you installed an aftermarket headlight?  These have caused an overload of the controller. 

My problem was the battery cradle connection melted wiring.  I had to replace the connectors.  You might have to do that or replace the cradle.

[RadMagnus]

... I have tried with my spare battery. ...

Well, that rules out issues with the keyswitch.

"Pictures here"? What pictures?

Thank you very much for pointing that out! I've tried to upload but it fails. I'll try here in this reply as well.

[RadMagnus]

Have you disconnected the headlight and tail light and seeing it will run disconnected? 

Have you installed an aftermarket headlight?  These have caused an overload of the controller. 

My problem was the battery cradle connection melted wiring.  I had to replace the connectors.  You might have to do that or replace the cradle.

Hi! Thanks for replying! I have now received a long instruction from Rad and I will try it tonight. This include disconnecting one connector after the other.

I Believe I did this when I was troubleshooting without success. But I will try again in a more structured fashion!

melted connectors, yikes!! I will have to check that.

[RadMagnus]

Have you disconnected the headlight and tail light and seeing it will run disconnected? 

Have you installed an aftermarket headlight?  These have caused an overload of the controller. 

My problem was the battery cradle connection melted wiring.  I had to replace the connectors.  You might have to do that or replace the cradle.

And no - no aftermarket parts except for the eggrider...

[RadMagnus]

Have you disconnected the headlight and tail light and seeing it will run disconnected? 

Have you installed an aftermarket headlight?  These have caused an overload of the controller. 

My problem was the battery cradle connection melted wiring.  I had to replace the connectors.  You might have to do that or replace the cradle.

This was green in the bottom before I cleaned it. I wonder if that's enough or if it needs to be replaced... I will update tomorrow after I've done all the steps in the guide from Rad...

[handlebar]

This was green in the bottom before I cleaned it. I wonder if that's enough or if it needs to be replaced... I will update tomorrow after I've done all the steps in the guide from Rad...

I don't know how the pins are connected to the wires, but maybe corrosion affected those connections. I'd check continuity. When I saw no other way, I've shoved a sewing needle through the insulation to contact a wire.

If it turns out to be a defunct controller, when I had trouble with my Radmission controller, I replaced it with a 25 amp controller and display from electrobikeworld. The 25-amp version will fit where the OEM controller was, held by strong zip ties pulled tight. I put RTV on the matching surface of the seat tube to keep the controller from sliding.

[RadMagnus]

I?ve went through all of Rad?s steps in the guide and it seems to be the wiring harness or battery connector. Does not turn on if I disconnect as per their instructions:
Pedal Assist Connector, Motor Connector, Taillight Connector, Rear Accessory Port (if nothing plugged in then continue), Brake Connector - left and right, Throttle Connector, Front Accessory Port (if nothing plugged in then continue), and Headlight Connector.

[inoxa]

Once you crack open the cradle, you may see melted insulation around the wiring.  That's what I had.  The wiring in the battery is better insulated.  The only reason I replaced the battery side was because the  plastic melted and expanded and wouldn't fit into the cradle. 

The 3 center pins are dummies. I think they are only used for aligning the battery into the cradle.

 

[Ddaybc]

When one has connections that are covered in corrosion and the system has stopped working one needs to see where the problem lies. Corrosion can creep inside sealed wires as it is considered a galvanic type of growth. Where a wire goes, corrosion can follow. Thus the need for a continuity test. In this case check the continuity from the controller to each of the pins in the connector. If you have continuity in all of the pins/wires then you need to check continuity from the other part of the connector to the motor plug. Again, if continuity is good then check continuity from the other side of the plug to the motor.
It's the only way to see what part of the wiring you need to replace. Sometimes one can replace just one wire, other times just a part of a wiring harness. Often the entire harness needs to be replaced.
This test will also determine, if all of the continuity checks out OK, that it may be your controller and there's additional tests for that. I don't know how to test for a controller so, if this is your case, then others will need to chime in.

[handlebar]

Where a wire goes, corrosion can follow. Thus the need for a continuity test. In this case check the continuity from the controller to each of the pins in the connector. If you have continuity in all of the pins/wires then you need to check continuity from the other part of the connector to the motor plug. Again, if continuity is good then check continuity from the other side of the plug to the motor.

I'd love to have wiring diagrams for my bikes to check continuity. How do you knew which pins are wired to which pins?

[John Rose]

I'd love to have wiring diagrams for my bikes to check continuity. How do you knew which pins are wired to which pins?

Me too. That, and a functional diagram
And a logic flowchart, for what I call "differential diagnosis".

And a pony.

Okay. Never mind the pony.

[RadMagnus]

When one has connections that are covered in corrosion and the system has stopped working one needs to see where the problem lies. Corrosion can creep inside sealed wires as it is considered a galvanic type of growth. Where a wire goes, corrosion can follow. Thus the need for a continuity test. In this case check the continuity from the controller to each of the pins in the connector. If you have continuity in all of the pins/wires then you need to check continuity from the other part of the connector to the motor plug. Again, if continuity is good then check continuity from the other side of the plug to the motor.
It's the only way to see what part of the wiring you need to replace. Sometimes one can replace just one wire, other times just a part of a wiring harness. Often the entire harness needs to be replaced.
This test will also determine, if all of the continuity checks out OK, that it may be your controller and there's additional tests for that. I don't know how to test for a controller so, if this is your case, then others will need to chime in.

Thank you! I might have to buy a multimeter...

[RadMagnus]

When one has connections that are covered in corrosion and the system has stopped working one needs to see where the problem lies. Corrosion can creep inside sealed wires as it is considered a galvanic type of growth. Where a wire goes, corrosion can follow. Thus the need for a continuity test. In this case check the continuity from the controller to each of the pins in the connector. If you have continuity in all of the pins/wires then you need to check continuity from the other part of the connector to the motor plug. Again, if continuity is good then check continuity from the other side of the plug to the motor.
It's the only way to see what part of the wiring you need to replace. Sometimes one can replace just one wire, other times just a part of a wiring harness. Often the entire harness needs to be replaced.
This test will also determine, if all of the continuity checks out OK, that it may be your controller and there's additional tests for that. I don't know how to test for a controller so, if this is your case, then others will need to chime in.

The battery connector can't be that expensive. Anyone that knows where to get one fast online?