Author Topic: Rad Runner Mods  (Read 1932 times)

Bob Mc

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Rad Runner Mods
« on: August 13, 2020, 03:37:44 AM »
Some of the mods I made.
Second battery, with a 2P2T switch so I can use one or the other, or turn both off.
Wrapped the cables with swirl wrap, 8mm from Amazon. I think it looks better than the velcro cover.
The new controller from Bolton is a lot wider than original so I made a wider skid plate from aluminum.
The front wheel on the Runner swings all the way to one side or the other when on the center stand and off the ground. I saw a spring on the Rad Cargo Bike that holds the front wheel straight so I put a piece of rubber tubing from the fender bolt to the the frame. It works great, can't feel any control difference when riding.
« Last Edit: August 13, 2020, 03:40:51 AM by Bob Mc »

Ryan

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Re: Rad Runner Mods
« Reply #1 on: August 14, 2020, 09:08:30 PM »
Awesome! Guess you'll never have range anxiety on your RadRunner  8)

Is the second battery sitting on a metal plate as well? That's a perfect spot for it.

Bob Mc

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Re: Rad Runner Mods
« Reply #2 on: August 15, 2020, 06:06:49 PM »
Howdy, I installed a thin plywood shelf resting on the rear frame crossover and put two small "L" brackets on the downtubes and mounted the metal shelf that came with the battery on the plywood. It uses the battery key lock.
It is really nice not worrying about electrons for getting home.

992023515

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Re: Rad Runner Mods
« Reply #3 on: August 16, 2020, 01:34:55 AM »
I would be interested in where you got the battery and a schematic of the wiring. Looks cool.

Bob Mc

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Re: Rad Runner Mods
« Reply #4 on: August 16, 2020, 08:01:46 PM »
I would be interested in where you got the battery and a schematic of the wiring. Looks cool.
Howdy. The battery is from Amazon "Unit Pack Power" 48v 15 ah, $308. I had to do a slight frame mod to get it to fit. All dimensions are listed on Amazon so you could probably get one that fits without mods. The schematic drawings are poor. I took a Mechanical drawing class at the U of Fla a few years ago (1960), and lost a lot of lead since then. The DTDP switch is from NAPA, it is rated at 250V 15 amp and 120V 78 Amp, so I figured it would hold 48 volts. After full power for a few minutes it isn't even warm. I like it cuz the batteries are never in parallel, always separate.

Altema

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Re: Rad Runner Mods
« Reply #5 on: September 01, 2020, 07:50:57 PM »
Nice version of an auxiliary tank! Do you power down the display before flipping the switch?

Bob Mc

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Re: Rad Runner Mods
« Reply #6 on: September 01, 2020, 07:56:42 PM »
Nice version of an auxiliary tank! Do you power down the display before flipping the switch?
I do turn off the display, key off the battery that was in use, flip the switch to the other battery, turn on the second battery, then turn on the display. That may be over cautious but works.

Altema

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Re: Rad Runner Mods
« Reply #7 on: September 05, 2020, 05:13:28 PM »
That's the way I would do it as well. You could technically run them in parallel since both battery packs are the same voltage. They balance out as they drain, but I think I would prefer they way you have it.

Count

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Re: Rad Runner Mods
« Reply #8 on: September 28, 2020, 12:20:49 AM »
Why not just use the Bolton dual parallel battery connector?

Some of the mods I made.
Second battery, with a 2P2T switch so I can use one or the other, or turn both off.
Wrapped the cables with swirl wrap, 8mm from Amazon. I think it looks better than the velcro cover.
The new controller from Bolton is a lot wider than original so I made a wider skid plate from aluminum.
The front wheel on the Runner swings all the way to one side or the other when on the center stand and off the ground. I saw a spring on the Rad Cargo Bike that holds the front wheel straight so I put a piece of rubber tubing from the fender bolt to the the frame. It works great, can't feel any control difference when riding.

Count

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Re: Rad Runner Mods
« Reply #9 on: September 28, 2020, 12:55:17 AM »
I Just became aware of this forum, and am enjoying and learning from it.   Some very interesting and informative posts here!  At the expense of sounding cocky, you have some catching up to do!  As of today, I have installed: 

-A Bolton suspension front end, 35 amp controller (mounted exactly where the original mounts, in a waterproof enclosure); A new TRUE 1000w Baffang motor (which makes a HUGE difference in power);  multi-adjustable handlebar stem/riser,  and color display, Three 2000w headlights (great for night beach and golf course rides!), custom Harley solo style seat with full 3 point suspension, normal stuff like fenders, racks, and front and rear collapsible milk crate style baskets, and OH, did I mention a 1000w front hub motor 4" x 20" wheel/tire (for extra umph in soft beach sand, where I ride), with individual throttle (and as I come to find, about an extra 5MPH in speed).  Currently I am installing  a 7 speed derailleur, and have the gear selector, cable, 7 gear cassette (came with the 1000w Baffang motor) installed, and working on the actual derailleur mounting: nearly there. (The chain currently rides on one of the gears in the cassette). Other misc. handlebar mounted junk like bluetooth speaker and mount for tunes, cell phone mount, beer can holder,  headlight switch, etc.  With the front throttle added, and a 7 speed gear selector, as well as the other stuff mounted to the handlebar,  I have had to add a few handlebar extensions but it looks pretty good. 

I know, I know, I am blowing hot air until I post photos!  I will take some soon!  What is next?  I am contemplating another battery, as range is modest with all of the extra junk (about 20-25 miles on the beach, mostly in PAS2).   I am not a speed freak, and am contemplating a second 48v battery, connected in parallel with the original for about 35A of power, OR an upgrade to a 52 volt second battery, simply mounted somewhere, but manually switched, unless I can find a cheap effective high amperage electronic battery selector!



Yeah, I could have bought a more expensive bike with some of these gadgets, but this has kept me busy through the pandemic, and I simply love designing, engineering and installing upgrades, especially when most are NOT bolt on parts intended for the RadRunner! 
« Last Edit: September 28, 2020, 12:58:33 AM by Count »

wkindred

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Re: Rad Runner Mods
« Reply #10 on: September 28, 2020, 01:41:40 PM »


hey count!

how were you able to mount the bolton suspension fork?

other reviews claim it can't (easily) be done...

Count

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Re: Rad Runner Mods
« Reply #11 on: September 29, 2020, 09:28:22 PM »
It went on very easily.  I had to make a new front axle, which needed to be longer to accomodate the fender supports.  It cost $10 for a stainless threaded rod.  I had to transfer the threaded insert from the Bolton fork stem and insert it into the Bolton one, simple stuff.  Even the headlight mounted right up, as well as the front Rad rack.  I also love my home designed seat: So comfortable, with no fatigue or butt soreness!  It has 2 coil springs, and a suspension seat post, all actively cushioning the ride, along with the Bolton front end.  The brake caliper mounted right on, once I removed one part.  I had to fabricate 2 aluminum spacers from tubing to mount the caliper, but a hand full of washers would work.   Here are some photos:






hey count!

how were you able to mount the bolton suspension fork?

other reviews claim it can't (easily) be done...
« Last Edit: September 29, 2020, 09:32:26 PM by Count »

Ryan

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Re: Rad Runner Mods
« Reply #12 on: September 30, 2020, 01:44:35 AM »
Well I think you win the award for most unique looking RadRunner. Thanks for sharing.

sc00ter

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Re: Rad Runner Mods
« Reply #13 on: September 30, 2020, 03:26:29 AM »
Yes, that is cool!

wkindred

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Re: Rad Runner Mods
« Reply #14 on: September 30, 2020, 01:24:42 PM »


count -

i noticed you mounted the front fender backwards, was this due to the fender support spacing?