Update 25 Apr 2022 - revised a couple of controller settings for mo-better smoothness etc - see below
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Mine has been sitting in its box since late last year, but I finally got it installed for testing today on my 2021 Mini ST2 (did the Area 13 hydraulic brake calipers this week too; they work great), leaving all the stock equipment in place, but disconnected, just to make sure the new setup works.
And man, does it ever seem to work! Connecting all the cables under the crank was a little finicky due to the short length of some of the factory cables on the frame and stiffness of some, but it all hooked up with a little patience and a pair of pliers to firmly hold one side of the connector in a couple cases. All the right cables you'll need on the controller are there and the pinouts correct, so just be careful to align them properly before pushing them together and it should be fine. The current kit includes a tail/brake light connector that functions just like the factory controller, so everything back there works normally.
I have attached below a screenshot of my initial settings (far right column), derived from the kindly-provided spreadsheet from Ray StDenis here on this forum; I started with these and it works great, but I might tweak things here and there as I gain experience with it. Note my tire diameter of 23" for the 20"-wheel bikes and the CST Big Boat tires -
I still need to compare against my GPS speed to see if this needs tweaking for accuracy within the limits of update rate and data input, this is the correct size; my GPS matches the display, but note that P1 needs to be set to 103 as well for best accuracy. Both DIM and P1 values will change with different size wheels/tires and motor design, but these work great with the Big Boats on a Mini with the stock Rad motor.
There are several new features included with the new controller, including ambient air temp (which matches my Thermoworks calibrated thermometer), cruise control which I haven't tried yet, trip timer and a GIGANTIC feature that Rad has never yet implemented - the Trip Time and Trip Distance do NOT zero out when the display is turned off! That was one of the first things I checked because it always pissed me off to have them clear when stopping for lunch on a ride when the display timed out; now they don't zero unless/until done manually and intentionally, although the display still times out and shuts down after 5 minutes of inactivity, which is great. Even turning on the headlight is easier; long-press the PAS-up button instead of the two buttons needed by the Rad display. This controller has an option to display motor temperature as well, but the stock Rad motor doesn't provide that data - if you activate the setting, you'll just see a constant 59F reading, so best to just keep this setting at zero.
And holy crap, this performs as advertised - like a booster rocket's been added under my butt. As expected without a voltage change, top speed still maxes out at around 25 mph with the motor only (the controller's limit setting is about 42 mph), but that's fine - I wanted acceleration and uphill grunt torque, not more speed. Have only ridden a couple miles, but ran through all gears and PAS settings, taking it up to a little over 1,500w without any complaints, and it was still climbing when I ran out of road. Such a great improvement to my bike, just what I was expecting and hoping to see.
A word of caution: this new controller pulls immediately and strongly like a farm tractor with factory parameter settings, so don't blip the throttle unless you're on the bike, the rear wheel's off the ground or you're prepared to let off the gas and hit the brakes immediately - it literally felt like it could pull right out of my hands if I hadn't been prepared to stop it. It seems that out of the box, the controller disables the throttle in PAS 0, but that may be just when not pedaling for safety, not sure yet, and I need to review the settings to see if this is changeable. In PAS 1 or above, it leaps instantly when standing alongside the bike at a stop. Update: I have set C3 (power-up PAS setting) to 0, so that throttle is not available at startup, for safety.
There is a "walking mode" just like Rad's controller, activated by holding the PAS-down button for at least 3 seconds; I tried it with the rear wheel off the ground to confirm it works, but haven't tried it on pavement yet to see if it's faster or slower than Rad's (which everybody seems to think is too fast, including me).
Aside from the display being fairly dim, but still readable in direct sunlight, I have no complaints (although playing with the C6 parameter might help that - UPDATE: it did, although just slightly, and it's now 4 instead of 3) and now have a project to remove the old display and controller from the bike and get the new stuff laced up properly for the long term. Will probably apply Flex Shot to seal the controller seams just in case, although I avoid riding in wet weather and the Mini ST has a pretty-protected controller mount location. The box seems to have a gasket in the seam, but Bolton / Area 13 states that it is NOT advertised as waterproof.
Overall, definitely and highly recommended on first impression.
New brakes, new rocket boost, new riding season - good to go!
UPDATE: the chart below is revised - I left my initial settings from 23 April in there, so you can see the few changes I made today. C5 is confusing, because as near as I can tell it does different things from 0-2 as it does from 3-10. I changed it from 10 to 0, and this solved the problem I had of the throttle lighting off 100% immediately and a jumpy start; now it ramps up fairly smoothly and works a lot better from a full stop, more like a Rad controller. It does NOT limit the power to the motor as settings 3 through 10 do - it still ramps up to 100%, just more gradually. Setting it to 1 or 2 instead of 0 seems to ramp up faster.
I also tried messing with C14 (PAS tuning) which regulates how much "oomph" the motor will provide during pedaling. Default is 1 (low) and I tried 2 (medium) and 3 (high), ending up leaving it at 1 to let me put some effort into it. For those with weak legs or other problem who want to rely on the motor more, try increasing it to 2 or 3.
The full manual where I found these extra details can be found here:
https://ebikeescape.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Bolton_Controller_Manual_Rad_Power_Bikes.pdfThis is linked in Part 2 of the controller-upgrade vids from forum owner Ryan and his brother.... worth watching over at
https://youtu.be/fsbcY91alf0